The moment you step into this long building, perched on a promontory overlooking the island's final stretch into the great river, you're transported elsewhere. Not that the decor is from another era, but a history lingers, with baker Laurin Dufour making bread here for 50 years.
Boulangerie Bouchard is an institution on the island, and even 'overseas' (meaning the mainland territories of Charlevoix and beyond). Cyclists riding along chemin des Coudriers have adopted the place as a bike rest stop, taking the opportunity to fill up before setting off again.
The legendary crooked pâté of the Isle
They serve some of the most enticing meal platters, including the crooked pâté, whose 'probable' history is brilliantly told by owner Noëlle-Ange Harvey. There seems to be more than one version of this legend. Here's one the baker swears is true. Before the arrival of schooners and later ferries, the islanders had only canoes to reach the north shore. Until 1954, several valiant 'crossers' braved the river with its seasonal constraints and often extreme conditions.
These boatmen transported provisions, mail, schoolchildren, and the sick on a daily basis. Each day, everyone made sure to bring their own meal for the crossing. The small, round meat pie was the staple dish. This little pie didn't stay round for long at the bottom of the canoe, up in the bow, in the thick of the crossing. With the pitching and rolling, the pie often ended up all 'crooked.'
While discussing this with his wife, one of the boatmen suggested she make her pies in a half-moon shape. This way, they would be easier to handle and eat with one hand. That was all it took for the boatman's suggestion to become the norm, and this little delicacy was christened the 'crooked pâté.'
Every day, you can savour dishes made from Charlevoix's rich terroir. You can also buy artisanal breads and breads made with flour from the island's mills. And you'll find everything you need for a good country picnic.
In the back room, they still work with some of the original equipment, including the dough mixer and ovens, which are still in working order. In summer, on sunny days or during the peak tourist season, it's not uncommon to see long queues of people waiting to buy bread... or many other baked goods.
Boulangerie Bouchard
boulangeriebouchard.com
1648, chemin des Coudriers
Île-aux-Coudres (Qc) G0A 3J0
418.438.2454
They met in Québec through the Internet. Before social media as we know it. An electronic bulletin board. The 1990s. They were each there for different reasons, but not so different, it turned out.
Patrick Fournier hails from Dolbeau, the one before the merger. Sébastien Simard grew up in La Baie. They already had a regional connection before they even met. Even though everyone says Saguenay and Lac Saint-Jean are not alike, it was ultimately their shared love of cooking that truly brought them together.
Patrick took a professional cooking course in Fierbourg, Québec, in 1996. Sébastien was already making his start in restaurant kitchens. Then they both wanted something different: challenges on another level. They had already worked together in the kitchen on a few occasions. It was in Montréal that they found what they were looking for.
Patrick is adamant: he had known what he wanted to do for a long time. He wanted to gain the experience and autonomy to run a kitchen and everything that comes with it. As for Sébastien, he was lucky enough to have some rather satisfying professional experiences for a chef: first, two years with Jean-François Plante, considered an artist and a master of gastronomy, from whom he learned a great deal, then five years at the famous and opulent Mirage golf club in Terrebonne, owned at the time by René Angélil and Céline Dion, where Québec's elite, and even international elite, gathered at all times.
Then, at some point in 2020, a rather tempting offer arrived. The management of the Hôtel du Jardin in Saint-Félicien, Lac Saint-Jean, wanted to breathe new life into the restaurant Le Baumier, named after the conifer that grows abundantly in the region. Patrick Fournier received the offer to become its chef. However, he wasn't going to come alone. He insisted that his partner, Sébastien Simard, be part of the offer. No sooner said than done.
That's how the two of them ended up in the kitchens of Le Baumier in September 2020, in the midst of the COVID pandemic. It was a golden opportunity to demonstrate their talent for takeout orders while public health had ordered dining rooms closed.
Since then, the chef couple has proven time and again that the owners of the Hôtel du Jardin made the right call in hiring them.
Le Baumier offers diners the pleasure of the table in a charming, welcoming setting. The menu features avant-garde dishes inspired by Nordic flavours. Each visit brings flavourful dishes that change with the seasons. Everything is prepared on-site with passion, delivering a quality and freshness that honours regional ingredients.
The gourmet dishes the chefs prepare are inspired by boreal flavours and rooted in ancestral Québec traditions, each with their distinct personal touches, avant-garde yet respectful of the ingredients, never altering them.
Le Baumier is a proud bearer of the Ambassadeurs de La Zone Boréale designation from the Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean agri-food table, and also carries the Aliments du Québec label.
At the 2023 Gala de la Table agroalimentaire, Patrick and Sébastien were honoured in the "Efforts to Purchase Local Products" category. They took the opportunity to thank local and regional producers "for the exceptional quality products we are fortunate to work with." They also acknowledged the support of their employers, the Beaubien family, without whom none of this would be possible, saying they felt privileged and happy to work for them.
The two chefs at Le Baumier still have plenty of projects up their sleeves, all aimed at supporting and celebrating Québec's terroir. They also want to create new table d'hôte experiences as the seasons change. They insisted that the dining room menu be printed on quality paper, to clearly demonstrate their commitment to a prestigious brand image worthy of the dishes served.
Finally, it's worth mentioning that Le Baumier hosts numerous wedding celebrations each year, including same-sex unions. Every effort is made to ensure these events are always remarkable and unforgettable in every respect. Both chefs are, of course, called upon.
Le Baumier Restaurant at L'hôtel du Jardin
hoteldujardin.com/restaurantlebaumier
1400, boul. du Jardin
Saint-Félicien (Qc)
418 679-8422
The coastal road in Gaspésie, particularly between Percé and Gaspé, offers unique and striking scenery at every turn. In St-Georges-de-La-Malbaie, in the Pointe-St-Pierre sector, there's a distinctive spot that has changed its purpose and name over the years. The place is known to the region's older residents, but not in its current form. Nordet opened the doors of its Thuya Spa in June 2019 and began its innovations by refurbishing 10 guest rooms according to well-considered ecological principles.
All of this is part of a larger project to establish an ecotourism centre in this sector belonging to the city of Percé, halfway to Gaspé.
Formerly known as the popular "Motel Bond", it was built over fifty years ago by Henry Bond. In addition to living on site with his family, he found the time to create a very popular bar that left its mark on many lives. The two new owners, Jeffrey Samuel-Bond and Steven Bond, are in fact Henry Bond's grandson and son.
The Motel Bond, which gave rise to Nordet
Jeffrey Samuel-Bond, founder and owner of Avolo Plein Air since 2010, fulfilled a childhood dream by buying back this family motel in the winter of 2019 to create an ecotourism centre in Saint-Georges-de-Malbaie. Steven Bond, who lived in the Motel Bond in his youth, now resides in the United States. There, he owns an IT consulting firm and is a shareholder in the Nordet project, also serving as a mentor.
For the curious, Nordet is in fact a synonym for wind from the northeast, a nice nod to the reality of Pointe St-Pierre!
Nordet today
Relaxation at its peak
The spa shares the owners' ecological values, with its four pools (three hot, one cold) and sauna all made of Canadian red cedar and requiring only minimal treatment products to keep the water clean at all times.
Thermotherapy in the spotlight
Thermotherapy involves using temperature variations, typically between 10 and 40 degrees Celsius, to relax and soothe the body's muscles and joints. The body normally maintains a temperature of 37 degrees Celsius. When exposed to these temperature variations, blood vessels dilate and contract, releasing endorphins, among other substances, which are responsible for the feeling of well-being.
The thermotherapy cycle typically consists of about 15 minutes in the heat, a quick plunge into cold water, and then a period of relaxation. Repeating this cycle several times allows you to reach an exceptional level of relaxation.
The changing rooms feature showers made of recycled ceramic from a local company, the body products are organic, and over 90% of purchases were made from Québec suppliers. Finally, at Thuya Spa, the facilities also include a relaxation area with a wood fire and two outdoor areas, making it the first Nordic spa in Gaspésie.
As a reminder, in 2021, Nordet secured a spot in the national finals of the Défi OSEntreprendre for the category Doing Business Together, a new category recognizing entrepreneurs who stand out through the evolution of their procurement practices.
A variety of services
Nordet is also about accommodation, offered for overnight stays only, or in spa packages. Several rooms, suites, and even a fully equipped chalet are available, all with an eco-friendly approach. Many improvements have been made to the former motel in recent years.
Outdoor activities are also offered. The website of Nordet makes for a well-documented display of them, including sea kayaking.
It's worth mentioning the Bond Café, a food counter and breakfast buffet now available, serving brunch every morning until 11 a.m. The menu features salads, thin-crust pizzas, tapas and Asian soups, pastries, and other snacks. Several beers from Gaspésie microbreweries and organic wines are also available.
Over the coming years, its promoter explains, new services and ecotourism activities will appear, notably in addition to the spa, which will expand and add facilities and services.
Le Nordet – Spa Thuya
nordet.ca
1600 route 132 est, QC-132,
Saint-Georges-de-Malbaie, QC G0C 2X0
(418) 645-2223
Steve and his partner acquired this cottage property five years ago, on an exceptional seaside site. It features 8 newly built cottages: 4 family cottages, two of which sleep up to 7, and 4 others sleeping a maximum of 5.
Domaine Repos du pirate is located at the eastern end of Sainte-Flavie, very close to the Institut Maurice-Lamontagne, a renowned and important Pêches et Océans Canada research centre. Every unit offers everything you need for a comfortable stay and to feel at home. Guests also have access to a shared outdoor spa, outdoor fire pits, BBQs, a children's playground, and direct access to the beach.
For the past five years, it has welcomed seasonal or temporary workers at local institutions and businesses, as well as small groups and families on vacation. Some return year after year.
Flower and garden lovers will appreciate being close to the Jardins de Mitis, a renowned and always fascinating attraction.
Domaine Repos du Pirate
domainereposdupirate.com
780, route de la Mer
Sainte-Flavie, QC GOJ 2L0
418.509.4675
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exLaS7TA7OQ&ab_channel=MordusdeSki
Just outside the city of Saguenay, the Valinouët multi-sport outdoor winter resort offers a first distinctive feature: its snow is 100% natural. The snow isn't manufactured; it's tamed and shaped.
Located about 45 km northeast of the City of Saguenay, in Saint-David-de-Falardeau, in the Mont-Valin National Park area, the site enjoys exceptional snow cover thanks to its microclimate, at nearly 810 m elevation at the summit.
It's well known that people in Québec's gay community are fond of winter sports, particularly snow sports (cross-country skiing, downhill skiing, snowboarding, snowshoeing, etc.). Valinouët is therefore a destination to consider with complete confidence.
The new chalet, inaugurated for the 2020 season, required a $5 million investment. It seats 360 on the ground floor, plus 360 in the cafeteria on the second level and the restaurant-bar on the upper floor.
So, Valinouët offers not only dream conditions for winter sports, but also entertainment, festivities, and above all, guaranteed fun for all visitors. Here are a few examples:
- A wide choice of runs: 33 in total, for beginners, intermediates and experts.
- Six (6) ski lifts with a combined capacity of 7,600 skiers per hour.
- A marked 4.3 km trail at the summit of the mountain for snowshoers.
- An 8 km network (3 trails) is available free of charge to cross-country skiers. The trails are groomed regularly. Backcountry skiers will be delighted with two ascents accessible from the base of the mountain.
- For thrill-seekers: areas for experienced skiers and snowboarders, including the La Machette run, rated double diamond, with three impressive rocky notches to max out your adrenaline.
- A snow park with several features and jumps, appealing to all ages.
- A network of fat bike trails with free access near the ski chalet. The area includes three trails, totalling nearly 8 km.
- Located at the end of the main chalet, the tubing park has three slopes specially designed for tubing and a rope tow accessible to all.
In addition to these sports amenities, the centre offers a ski school for all levels, an equipment rental centre, "coolbox"-style accommodation at the foot of the slopes, a cafeteria with varied menus and a friendly restaurant-pub, a snowmobile rest stop, special events and occasional promotions, packages for groups or school activities, etc.
Worth noting: the Valinouët outdoor resort has been run by a worker cooperative since 1995. It currently counts about twenty worker members who have qualified for this status, some of whom sit on the board of directors. Previously, a non-profit organization had been created in 1984 by a group of people who wanted to see this type of infrastructure in the region.
Near the winter resort, an alpine village offers accommodation, parking and direct access to snowmobile trails.
The cooperative is currently studying and planning a major development project aimed at eventually offering year-round activities.
valinouet.qc.ca
181, Rte du Valinouët,
Saint-David-de-Falardeau, QC G0V 1C0
(418) 673-6455
It is often said that you don't change a winning formula. Even though the Péchés Mignons boutique in Rimouski had been successful since 1991, the new owners since 2019, Céline Bilodeau and René Landry, brought their personal touch when they arrived.
The shop, located in a small shopping centre on rue Saint-Germain Ouest, has the feel of a bookstore, where everything is neatly organized and catalogued according to a well-established order. No surprise, since both have worked for a long time in the book trade, first in Lévis, and more recently at a branch in Rimouski. It was when they saw the business was for sale that they decided to take the plunge.
Péchés Mignons offers happiness to its customers. High-end chocolate, pastries, a wide variety of loose-leaf and bagged teas and herbal infusions, a good selection of fine confectionery, bubble tea and iced lemonades, ice cream and sorbets. "The best ice cream in town," says René Landry. And all of this is based first and foremost on the quality of the local and international artisans who produce it. They also offer exclusive products. European confectionery is also featured.
You have to see the immense display of white metal tea tins, all the same shape and size, as soon as you enter from the mall. You can't help but look at the labels to appreciate the variety. The display of fine chocolates alone is worth a short detour. And what about the Brets potato chips, imported from France and offered in 17 different flavours?
Céline and René have poured their hearts and souls into their business for the past three years, ensuring that customers always receive a warm welcome and find the products they're looking for, so they'll keep coming back. They know they hold a good part of the recipe for happiness in this world, and they fully intend to preserve and nurture it for many years to come.
Their son is involved in the business operations and could take over when his parents decide to retire, gradually but surely, so that the "merchant of happiness" can continue his work with a clientele that appreciates him.
Péchés Mignons
facebook.com/pechesmignonsrimouski
119, rue Saint-Germain Ouest
Rimouski (Qc) G5L 4B6
418.725.5707
By Gaëtan Vaudry
During our brief stay of a few days in the city of Saguenay, we couldn’t help but stop at Café Cambio on Racine East Street four or five times. Firstly, to enjoy the atmosphere of this downtown Chicoutimi solidarity cooperative, and secondly, to savor affordable and healthy dishes that showcase products from various local producers.
As soon as Virginie Simard-Dufour starts talking about the products available at this fair-trade and organic micro-roastery founded in March 2005, her eyes light up. She speaks passionately about the tireless teamwork of 32 members, including 10 worker-members: “
Under the label, we embody a vision of a better world—one where farmers and workers sit at the negotiating table as equals
,” proudly notes the service manager, restaurant coordinator, and barista.
Café Cambio, a key gathering spot for students from the Chicoutimi CEGEP and the Université du Québec à Chicoutimi (UQAC), is also a venue for showcasing young Saguenay artists. The establishment regularly hosts art openings and intimate acoustic concerts of emerging music.
During my visit last November, I had the chance to enjoy some excellent dishes at this establishment, which was the brainchild of two young Montrealers and childhood friends, Guylaine Pelletier and Geneviève Demers. To start, I had a comforting mushroom soup, perfect for that time of year. I followed it with the spicy Bedi panini (Cajun-seasoned chicken, caramelized onions, spinach, mozzarella, and vegenaise), served with salad, corn chips, and salsa. For dessert, I enjoyed the daily special, all accompanied by one of their excellent fair-trade coffees. To my surprise, the bill for this delicious three-course meal was very affordable!
What also struck me during my first visit was their “Pay it Forward” concept, where customers can anonymously donate a soup or coffee to someone in need. Given the growing issue of homelessness in downtown Chicoutimi, this gesture of generosity is truly admirable and meaningful.
Café Cambio’s coffee and products are available at various points of sale across the Saguenay–Lac-Saint-Jean region, including Chicoutimi, Jonquière, La Baie, Saint-Ambroise/Saint-Honoré, MRC Lac-Saint-Jean-Est, MRC Domaine-du-Roy, Bas-Saguenay, Saint-Fulgence/Sainte-Rose-du-Sacré-Cœur, Tadoussac, Les Bergeronnes, Les Escoumins, and even the Côte-Nord!
Café Cambio
414, rue Racine Est, Chicoutimi
418 549-7830
cafecambio.ca
No visit to Tadoussac is complete without a stroll down Rue du Bord-de-l'Eau to admire the bay and its sheltered marina. This street captures the very soul of Tadoussac. It's easy to understand why locals remain captivated by the views before them - since 2000, Tadoussac Bay has belonged to an exclusive club of the world's most beautiful bays, alongside San Francisco Bay and the Bay of Mont-St-Michel in France.
Standing proudly over the bay is an unmistakable landmark: the elegant white-and-red Hôtel Tadoussac. Everything about this property speaks to its exceptional character - from the vibrant flower gardens and towering trees that surround it, to its history-rich interior with period furnishings, renowned dining room, and breathtaking views.
The story of the hotel begins in 1864, when wealthy families from Montreal and Quebec City built the original Hôtel Tadoussac. That first building boasted a grand façade with twelve windows spread across three floors. After changing hands in 1879 for $12,000, it underwent its first major renovation in 1888. Sadly, the original hotel was destroyed in the fall of 1941.
A new chapter began in 1942, when William Hugh Coverdale, an Ontario businessman and president of Canada Steamship Lines, rebuilt the hotel. When it opened its doors on June 27th that year, the new hotel offered 137 rooms to welcome guests.
Today's Hôtel Tadoussac carries forward its rich heritage while embracing the future. Though it has changed hands several times, it remains a cherished destination for travelers from around the world.
At the helm since 2000 is Tina Tremblay, who brings her own deep connection to Tadoussac. A graduate of Université Laval's business program in 1981, Tina joined the hotel as financial controller in 1985. She has guided the property through five different ownerships, including three changes between 2005 and 2016, when it was acquired by its current owner, a Canadian real estate management company.
The hotel's reputation as a regional leader in sustainable development owes much to Tina's dedication. Her commitment runs deep - not only does she work on Rue du Bord-de-l'Eau, she calls it home. Born in Tadoussac, she grew up playing on these very grounds and the nearby beach, where her grandmother also lived.
General Manager since 2000, Tina Tremblay.
Today's guests can enjoy a full range of activities - from swimming and tennis to hiking and whale-watching excursions. The celebrated Coverdale dining room anchors the culinary experience, complemented by two additional venues: William and Café Lounge Coquart. With 60% of visitors coming from Europe, and year-round conference facilities hosting up to 200 people, the hotel buzzes with international energy.
Each June, Tadoussac welcomes the Happening des arts, launching the summer season. In 2025, from June 6th to 8th, artists will once again transform the streets into living galleries, creating works in real time across promenades and outdoor spaces - a truly immersive celebration of art against a stunning backdrop.
The Hôtel Tadoussac remains a key partner of this event, which grew from the Tadoussac Song Festival that Tina helped create in 1984. Each year, she also welcomes medical students from Université de Sherbrooke, who combine their conference with enjoying the festival's performances.
Tina's connection to local heritage extends beyond the hotel - she co-owns the historic Maison Tremblay, her family's home for four generations. Now available for rental, this century-old house offers a unique gathering space where families can come together, accommodating up to ten guests across five bedrooms.
Hôtel Tadoussac
hoteltadoussac.com
165, Rue du Bord-de-l'Eau
Tadoussac, QC G0T 2A0
(418) 235-4421
Pierre Perreault
The guest house La Mer Veille It has been part of the local landscape for 23 years. However, the ancestral home that houses it was built in 1880. It was converted by its owner to accommodate six fully equipped studios, encouraging stays of five days or more.
The site was largely spared by the high tides of December 6, 2010, which, combined with strong winds, caused flooding and devastated land in several places along the coast, from Rimouski to Sainte-Flavie among others.
Damien RuestDamien Ruest, who served as mayor of Sainte-Flavie for four years in the 2010s, and his partner Lise, are welcoming and charming hosts. Their establishment on the banks of the Saint-Laurent is well located right at the entrance to the village of Sainte-Flavie. With the Québec and Patriotes flags proudly displayed by this longtime independence activist, it's hard to miss. A well-maintained municipal park with family-friendly facilities is right next door.
Seasonal workers, small families passing through, and tourists from all over come to stay throughout the year. Many return regularly.
The La Mer Veille guest house is certainly worth considering if you're looking for peace and relaxation on the banks of the great river.
Motel La Mer Veille
motellamerveille.net
336, route de la Mer
Sainte-Flavie, Qc G0J 2L0
418-775-1700
A holiday in Charlevoix? Wild nature, fresh air and a stunning diversity of landscapes, three national parks, one of the world's best spots for watching marine mammals, and the astonishing variety of its natural sites: the Charlevoix region has plenty to appeal to even the most demanding.
This is what prompted Daniel Guay, 20 years ago, to create a centralized platform for chalet and condo rentals in the region, Hébergement Charlevoix. "Whether with friends, as a couple or with family, in a cozy retreat just for you. Rustic, luxurious, at the foot of the ski slopes or on the shores of a lake surrounded by wilderness, there are many options for finding a chalet to rent," explains its director.
The organization offers a selection of over 300 comfortable and affordable chalets, houses and condos in the Charlevoix region. "We offer the comfort and tranquillity of a house or chalet for a hassle-free stay, just like being at home," says Daniel Guay. Winter or summer, all year round, you can find the perfect getaway, bringing only your clothes and personal belongings. This has its advantages, especially when travelling with family.
Ski enthusiasts know how popular and highly regarded the ski resorts of Charlevoix are. Many of the chalets and condos available are conveniently located near the slopes, sometimes even right at their base. Those who prefer the river, the sea air, and the region's sandy beaches will also find plenty to enjoy. In short, there are chalets and houses for rent to suit every taste and occasion.
In addition to offering accommodation options, the company's website features a range of activities and tourist attractions to visit in Charlevoix year-round. There's plenty to choose from. It also highlights regional festivals and the best places to eat. A team of seven staff members continuously updates these sections.
Vacationers looking for the rare gem can easily find it by using the website's search tool, or by visiting the Baie Saint-Paul offices to meet the team in person.
In short, 20 years of experience in rental accommodations is certainly a guarantee of professionalism and quality. Furthermore, Daniel Guay is a director of the Corporation de l'industrie touristique du Québec (CITQ), which is responsible, among other things, for registering tourist accommodations in Québec. All listings on the Hébergement Charlevoix website are registered there.
Hébergement Charlevoix
hebergement-charlevoix.com
43, rue Racine
Baie-Saint-Paul, Qc G3Z 2P9
418 435.5107
