Travel log

When arriving via Highway 170, which cuts through the entire city of Saguenay, the Delta Saguenay Hotel stands out with its impressive height and sprawling footprint, acting as a welcoming beacon. This sets the tone for what its management offers to visitors, whether for family vacations in the region, a brief work trip, or an event or business meeting at its conference center.

Located in the Jonquière sector of Saguenay, this 4-star Marriott hotel caters to both families and business travelers. It sits slightly outside the city center and away from the Saguenay River, 26 km from Bagotville Airport, which serves the region. With its Boston Pizza restaurant, newly added indoor pool, and fitness center, the Delta Saguenay is one of the premier hotel establishments in the area.

 
According to the hotel’s General Manager, Olivier Fortin-Tremblay, investments made by the owners since 2012 have transformed it into a unique location in the region. The refined rooms include amenities such as a desk, ergonomic chairs, free Wi-Fi, flat-screen TVs, coffee makers, and mini-fridges. Some rooms feature bathtubs, while others have walk-in showers. Suites additionally include a fridge, microwave, dining area, fireplace, and sofa bed.

 
All rooms were renovated in 2012, drawing inspiration from the Canadian landscape with a refreshing and modern color palette and maximized use of natural light. Previously owned by an Ontario financial group, the Delta Saguenay became locally owned in 2017, led by businessman Laval Boulianne with support from the regional FTQ Solidarity Fund.

In 2018, the franchise managers invested in building a restaurant near the main lobby entrance, followed by a $1.2 million investment in a two-story annex housing an indoor pool with a spa and sauna, as well as an interactive playroom. These upgrades, operational since 2020, were necessary to attract more families, according to the General Manager. While maintaining its business focus with the conference center, the building now also offers a recreational purpose.

The Delta conference center boasts spacious rooms with all the necessary logistics for major events: 17 conference rooms and a ballroom spanning 11,660 square feet. The venue is highly regarded for the quality of its facilities and professional services provided to organizers of various events and meetings.

  
Of note, the Delta Saguenay also welcomes snowmobiling enthusiasts during winter, given its proximity to major regional and provincial trails. Additionally, the management practices an inclusive guest policy for all visitors.

In fall 2023, the hotel owners hinted at plans to improve the region's accommodation offerings, which are deemed insufficient by local tourism development stakeholders. Studies show that event attendees prefer to stay onsite. The Delta Saguenay currently offers 160 rooms, with plans to increase to 200 by adding a new tower on businessman Laval Boulianne’s property. This project could be realized by early 2024.

Hôtel Delta Saguenay

Website

2675, Boul. du Royaume
Jonquière, QC G7S 5B8
(418) 548-3124

When Mathieu Guimond was developing his vision for a unique and distinctive lodging site in Gaspésie during the pandemic, he was struck by a spark of motivation that drove him to search for the perfect location.

It was upon seeing this expansive plot of land overlooking Gaspé Bay, perched atop the cliffs somewhere between Percé and Gaspé, that he decided this would be the place to bring his vision to life. It took him four months to negotiate with the Ontario-based owner. He even acquired adjacent plots and another strip on the mountain for future projects.

In 2020, he began work to prepare the vacant site, draft occupancy plans, design various chalet styles, develop the construction and interior design concepts, and coordinate with contractors to start building.

 
He planned underground electrical installations for each chalet, a potable water supply, and septic systems, ensuring that no unsightly elements would detract from the setting. The result is almost like a small independent village.

   
Chalets Nautika were built to offer an unforgettable Gaspésie experience. Stay in style and comfort while maintaining a connection with the natural beauty of a region full of attractions. You can even visit to enjoy the joys of Gaspésie’s winter. In addition to cozy, inviting accommodations, you'll be near places to enjoy unique activities like fat biking on the beach and in the forest, skiing, snowshoeing, ice climbing, skating, Nordic spas, and more.

The chalets feature a modern, minimalist design while being warm and welcoming. They are equipped with everything necessary for modern life. Mathieu has gone above and beyond to ensure travelers feel entirely at ease. The mattresses are superior to anything else on the market, he emphasizes. "All you need to bring are your clothes, toiletries, and food—everything else is already there," he says.

 
Nautika offers a form of “glamping”—a blend of glamour and camping. This eco-friendly lodging immerses you in nature while providing the luxury and amenities of a hotel room. Here, it’s upscale “ready-to-camp.”

From the moment you step in, the light-filled space with its large windows invites nature inside. Throughout the seasons—under the sun, the stars, or with the sunrise on the point—Chalets Nautika provide a serene oasis. This scenic location offers panoramic views and top-tier comfort in Gaspésie.

 
Currently, the site features 20 chalets: 2 double units in the front, 5 double units in the rear, and 13 regular two-bed units scattered throughout. Plans are underway to add two more rear units and seven on a neighboring lot by 2023–2024. The site operates year-round. Chalet access is via a code for a key box mounted outside.

The site offers abundant entertainment options, including children’s games, hiking trails, cross-country ski tracks, birdwatching, volleyball, badminton, pétanque courts, campfire wood, and an on-site laundry facility. A semi-private beach is just 1 km away.

Chalets Nautika are just 15 minutes from Gaspé and 30 minutes from Forillon National Park and Percé, making it an ideal base to enjoy nearby tourist attractions.

Reservations can be made online through the Nautika website or other platforms like Airbnb.

One thing is certain: Mathieu Guimond (pictured) has plenty more ideas and projects in mind for this site and the surrounding area. Stay tuned to see what he has planned next.

Chalets Nautika Gaspésie
chaletsnautikagaspesie.ca
1961, Boul. Douglas
Gaspé, QC G4X 2W9
1 (866) 467-0801

Founded with the simple concept of bringing an Italian bistro-style restaurant to Campbellton, Pronto offers dishes such as delicious appetizers, salads, and pasta, not to mention a well-stocked drink menu. It also serves the famous fresh pasta from L'Atelier Gourmand.

  
The owner, Keegan Rose, opened his restaurant in July 2022, and it is already recognized among the city's top-rated by critics and customers. He has been working in the restaurant industry since reaching adulthood. Having had the opportunity to open his own restaurant, he jumped at the chance.

  The owner, Keegan Rose

In fact, he occupies the premises that the restaurant where he previously worked had left vacant when it moved elsewhere. A well-located and very busy place in the heart of the city, surrounded by many local businesses and very close to the Interprovincial Bridge leading to Quebec.

His initial project: to offer only Italian food at affordable and reasonable prices. He certainly believes it is possible to find it elsewhere in the city. But he points out that at his place, it is authentic and different from others. "Campbellton was missing this kind of place," he asserts. He personally trains the cooks who prepare the dishes that are the basis of his inspiration. Apart from the Italian menu, there is an interesting wine list featuring local and renowned products, as well as beers.

Pronto can accommodate about 40 people inside. A terrace outside in good weather allows for an additional fifteen or so. About 10 people find employment there.

While still in his thirties, he never thought he could own his own restaurant before his fifties. Having returned to Campbellton a few years ago, after working for some time in Calgary, for a restaurant chain in Rothesay, and having obtained his "red seal" chef certificate in Moncton, Keegan now felt ready to take the plunge.

 
Pronto is open from Tuesday to Saturday, for lunch and dinner. It is noteworthy that the owner and staff can provide service in both French and English. Taking great care of customers is part of his concept. And it seems to be working. It is advisable to book in advance to secure a table on weekends.

Pronto – Italian Bistro
prontocampbellton.com
99, Roseberry St
Campbellton (NB) E3N 2G6
506.753.5000

Barbara and Phil Thibodeau built from scratch, without a pun intended, this imposing residence assembled piece by piece, serving as a Bed & Breakfast by the sea in Pointe-Verte, New Brunswick. They named it Gîte Toutes Saisons (All Seasons B&B) to express their desire to make it a welcoming place all year round.

Each of the four rooms bears an evocative name: Summer Sunset, Autumn Sunrise, Winter Refuge, Spring Serenade.

Located between Bathurst and Campbelton, the B&B began welcoming travelers in 2000. A few years earlier, this site was just a large two-acre lot without any development. After acquiring it in 1999, they undertook to build a large house and develop the land to reflect their values and passion, with the added bonus of immediate proximity to the sea with its tides, sunrises, and aquatic birdlife.

Phil and Barbara hired local labor to build their B&B. This local cedar wood cottage, entirely designed by the owners, is a place of serenity in the Baie des Chaleurs.

Nature lovers, the hosts have a strong ecological conscience. They practice sound waste and food resource management, sourcing locally as much as possible, and highlighting local artisans. They opted for underfloor heating, which only heats occupied spaces during the day to reduce energy consumption.

With undeniable social commitment, Phil (originally from Bathurst) and Barbara (born in Ontario) are hosts who share their culture with authenticity and generosity. They sit down at the table with travelers and share life anecdotes and diverse knowledge. Phil has long participated in the multicultural committee aimed at fostering exchange between locals and immigrants, in addition to volunteering to accompany the sick. They are passionate about promoting change in their community. Barbara retired a few years ago from a teaching career in Chatham, Ontario.

The only house rules are: arrive when you want, go to bed when you are tired, get up when you are well-rested, and eat when you are hungry! The four rooms are spacious and cozy, inviting peaceful sleep. A fine cook, Phil will surprise you with a delicious local breakfast at the large table in their beautiful rustic dining room. "Phil loves preparing meals for people," explains Barbara. He is in his element in the kitchen. "You should see him go when we have family over during the holidays or when we welcome groups to the B&B," she adds.

They have many stories to tell, which they share authentically and simply with their guests. They raised a beautiful family of four children, one of whom still resides in Acadia while three are in Ontario. One of their granddaughters, a professional cook, has already shown interest in taking over from her grandparents when they decide to pass the torch. Phil is 83 and Barbara is 78. Even though they are in relatively good health, the day will come when they will have to think about resting and living peaceful days. Owning and managing a B&B for nearly 25 years is no easy feat.

Several services are included in the accommodation rate, including breakfast, Wi-Fi, direct access to the sea and beach, gardens, parking, etc.

What is certain is that a stay with these open-minded and welcoming people guarantees good times and happy memories.

Gîte Toutes saisons B&B
relaxseaside.com
10, rue des Oiseaux
Pointe-Verte (NB)
(506) 783-3122

The Musée de la Mer in Havre-Aubert, located at Cape Gridley on the historic site of La Grave in the Magdalen Islands, is perched proudly on one of the region's most stunning vantage points. Since moving to this location in 1974, after spending its early years in the former parish hall of Havre following its 1969 founding, the museum has played a leading role in preserving the maritime and cultural heritage of the islands.

This mission is carried out through research, conservation, public education, and showcasing the unique insular identity that shapes life for the people of the Magdalen Islands.

For those who love striking features in museums, a highlight greets visitors in the main hall of this expanded and renovated building (completed in 2011): a whale skeleton suspended dramatically from the ceiling.

  
A historical note: In May 2008, a sperm whale washed ashore near Pointe-aux-Loups. After confirming its death, a group of Magdalen Islanders decided to exhibit the skeleton at the museum. Led by Claude Bourque, Pierre-Henry Fontaine, and Paul Grégoire, along with 20 other volunteers, the group spent three days dissecting the carcass. The bones were meticulously cleaned and numbered, and after over six years of preparation, the 215 bones were reassembled and installed in the museum’s main hall in December 2014.

Since late 2022, Gabrielle Leblanc has been the museum's director. She continues the work of its founder, Father Frédéric Landry, who led the museum for over 30 years. With a background in political science, literature, and project management, Ms. Leblanc has been active in the cultural and heritage sector for many years. From 2008 to 2021, she served as supervisor of cultural activities and as a cultural heritage and library coordinator for the Municipality of the Magdalen Islands.

On August 8, 1969, the Museum of the Islands was inaugurated in the presence of Quebec Premier Jean-Jacques Bertrand. In 1972, the museum relocated and was renamed Musée de la Mer. The Quebec government provided a $200,000 grant to construct a dedicated building for the museum.

Engaging Exhibitions and Captivating Activities
"The Musée de la Mer provides an immersive experience into Magdalen culture through its year-round exhibitions and activities. Visitors can expect a warm welcome from our inspiring and passionate staff, as well as outstanding permanent and temporary exhibitions suitable for the whole family," says Gabrielle Leblanc.

 
The permanent exhibition "Living on the Islands, Living the Islands," along with rotating displays featuring local artists, genealogical resources, maritime artifacts, and lectures, awaits the many visitors each year. Topics range from fishing traditions to shipwrecks, offering something for both locals and tourists.

From May to October 2023, visitors can explore Annie Morin’s multidisciplinary exhibit, "A Walk on the Ocean Floor." This stunning showcase features sculptural and pictorial works inspired by the organic forms of the ocean and the interplay between its fragility and strength.

  
A notable event occurred in February 1971 when the museum hosted the exhibit "The Moon Lands on the Islands," featuring moon rocks brought back by Apollo 11 in 1969.

 
In July 1987, the Islands Aquarium was inaugurated in the historic Saltworks building at La Grave. It showcased the flora and fauna of the Gulf of Saint Lawrence. Although its focus shifted in 2017, the building now features a second-floor exhibition on La Grave’s history and cultural activities on the ground floor during summer. Experts are working to secure the 1895 structure to preserve its heritage.

The Musée de la Mer is a non-profit organization managed by a board chaired by Normand Thellab. It employs a multidisciplinary team and hosts researchers in archaeology and forensic anthropology each summer.

Musée de la Mer
museedelamer-im.com
1023, chemin De La Grave
Havre-Aubert, QC G4T 9C8
418 937-5711

Old Québec is the most popular tourist destination in Québec and features many of the greatest restaurants in the city. In the tradition of Serge Bruyère, many fine chefs in Québec are found in Québec city. Let us mention Jean-Luc Boulay (Le Saint-Amour and Chez Boulay), Arnaud Marchand (Chez Boulay), Daniel Vézina (Laurie Raphaël) and Louis Pacquelin (Panache) among others. Jean-Luc Boulay and Arnaud Marchand from Chez Boulay offer the experience of northern French cuisine while highlighting typical local products. It is located on the ground floor of the elegant Manoir Victoria, on Saint-Jean Street. Close by, Mr. Boulay also presides over the kitchen activities at Saint-Amour, a prominent figure of Québec’s gastronomic scene. Moreover, Saint Amour appears in Trip Advisors’ top 10 fine dining restaurants and it is not unusual to spot a celebrity seated there.

Situated in an old 18^th century warehouse in Vieux-Québec and part of the Auberge Saint-Antoine, the restaurant Panache offers the refined menu of chef Louis Pacquelin. While there, you can discover the artefacts showcased on the walls of the building, recalling the rich history of the French colony.

Tourists will also appreciate Les Anciens Canadiens, a restaurant established in a heritage building, where you can discover or rediscover some of the classics of traditional Québec cuisine. Near Château Frontenac, the Continental is renowned for its flambés. Close by, Le Parmesan offers delicious classics of Italian cuisine

Walking in the streets of Vieux-Québec is like following in the steps of the pioneers who gave birth to this nation. Founded by Samuel de Champlain as a trading post in 1608, the colony first developed around l’Habitation de Québec before expanding into the first streets traced around the Place Royale in the heart of the Vieux-Port. Restored in the early 1970s, this historical district brings us back in time to the capital of Nouvelle-France (New France) at the end of the 17th century. This was the era of Louis XIV, a bust of whom adorns the area. As I myself am a descendant of Mathurin Gagnon, who was one of the first merchants of Québec and whose home and retail store were located at the current site of the Sault-au-Matelot park (or Parc de l’Unesco), walking on the cobblestones of these historic sites is like reconnecting with the history of our roots in this country. A few steps away, Place Royale is the main site of the annual Fêtes de la Nouvelle-France, recreating the French colonial era of its original inhabitants.

In the Vieux-Port, one must absolutely visit the Musée de la Civilisation. The neighborhood is home to many gay-friendly establishments, among them the restaurant Marie-Clarisse, which was opened at the foot of the Casse-Cou staircase by nenowned chef Serge Bruyère.

Heading up to Haute-ville, one can admire the elements of fortification which have made Québec unique, for it is the only still-fortified city in North America. It is the neighborhood commonly reffered to as Vieux-Québec. Built at the end of the 19th century near the Citadelle fort, the hotel Château Frontenac rises above Place Royal on one side of the Terrasse Dufferin. The latter is a splendid walkway offering a spectacular view of the area and is perfect for romantic strolls. One can easily understand why the founders of Québec chose this strategic spot to establish the colony, which would become the capital of New France, then Lower Canada and finally, Québec.

The gay lifestyle took root fairly early in Vieux-Québec. The Sauna-hôtel Hippocampe on Mac Mahon Street, the oldest gay establishment still operating in the province (where some might recognize the interiors used for Robert Lepage’s film Le Confessionnal), has been open for over four decades. The owner, Yvon Pépin, had previously tended bar in many Vieux-Québec clubs, in a time when homosexual life was still mostly underground.

André Gagnon

The governments of Canada and Quebec are taking an important step by announcing their joint intention to begin working to expand the boundaries of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park. This project aims to better protect the biodiversity and ecosystems of the St. Lawrence Estuary, which is home to nearly 2,200 species, some of which, like the beluga, are in a precarious situation.

The announcement was made today by Steven Guilbeault, Minister of Environment and Climate Change and Minister responsible for Parks Canada, and the Québec Minister of Environment, Climate Change, Benoit Charette.

Protection of the St. Lawrence beluga

The expansion project's main objective is to protect the critical habitat of the St. Lawrence beluga, of which more than 60 percent currently lies outside the boundaries of the marine park. It also aims to preserve a high-quality feeding ground for several species of whales, some of which are in a precarious situation. In 2020, as a first act of protection by the Government of Québec, and while waiting for a legal status of protection, territorial reserves were set aside with the end goal of eventually creating protected areas. This project would help to consolidate the protection of a significant part of these territories. As currently planned, the project could quadruple the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park's area.

Today's announcement is a first step toward expansion of the marine park. In the coming months, the governments of Canada and Québec will jointly meet with regional and municipal organizations, as well as all stakeholders involved in the project, including First nations, research groups and local businesses to exchange perspectives and obtain feedback. Finally, a public consultation phase will be held, during which the proposed limits and the proposed protection measures will be discussed.

Recognized expertise

Backed with more than 25 years of Canada-Québec co-management and participatory governance in the region, the marine park is a unique model for collaboration and partnerships for the conservation of the marine environment. The expertise of its coordination committee and its teams in the fields of marine activity regulation, education, awareness, visitor experience and scientific research makes it a privileged protection tool, mainly for marine mammals, adapted to the context of the St. Lawrence estuary and the Saguenay Fjord.

The governments of Canada and Quèbec recognize that the protection of an environment as extensively used as the St. Lawrence Estuary requires strong joint cooperation, close collaboration with all members of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Coordination Committee and consultation with a multitude of regional stakeholders.Quotes:

''As a joint Québec-Canada marine protected area, the Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park has a 25-year history of collaborative conservation and public education successes. Its expansion will allow our governments to work together on several shared priorities, including the protection of marine biodiversity and the recovery of species at risk such as the St. Lawrence beluga. This collaboration between our governments is a clear sign that protecting biodiversity and endangered species is a shared priority. At COP15, we made ambitious commitments, a"nd today we are taking an important step towards achieving these goals."  Declares S teven Guilbeault, Minister responsible for Parks Canada

"The Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a source of national pride and a true natural jewel of Quebec. The Government of Québec is proud of this unique partnership with the federal government, which will improve the protection of marine mammals living in the Saint Lawrence Estuary, such as the beluga, which is an emblematic species of the fragility of this habitat. The knowledge gained in recent years sends a clear signal of what we must do to protect it. With extensive experience in co-management and participatory governance, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park is a model for protecting marine environments that promote sustainable tourism and benefit local communities. I am convinced that the leadership, experience and trusting relationships that have been at the heart of the park's management since its inception will be catalysts for the next steps toward this promising expansion project for our nation!"

Added Benoit Charette, Québec Minister of the Environment, the Fight against Climate Change, Wildlife and Parks

Highlights

Concerns about the decline of the beluga and its habitat were a determining factor in the creation of the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park (SSMP) in 1998. The SSMP is a unique Québec/Canada joint marine protected area created by Québec and federal legislation, the Saguenay–St. Lawrence Marine Park Act.
With a current surface area of 1,245 square kilometres (km2), the SSMP is located on Quèbec public lands at the confluence of the Saguenay River and the St. Lawrence Estuary. Its mandate is to enhance the level of protection of the ecosystems of a representative part of the Saguenay Fjord and the St. Lawrence Estuary for the purposes of conservation and environmental protection of the exceptional flora and fauna and natural resources found there, in addition to promoting sustainable educational, recreational and scientific activities.
The management of SSMP, under the joint responsibility of the Ministère de l'Environnement, de la Lutte contre les changements climatiques, de la Faune et des Parcs, of the Société des établissements de plein air du Québec (Sépaq) and Parks Canada, is based on a participatory governance approach that is unique in Canada and relies on stakeholders working together at the local, regional and national levels to achieve its objectives. Its coordination committee is composed of representatives of the Essipit Innu First Nation, the Wolastoqiyik Wahsipekuk First Nation, the Charlevoix-Est regional county municipalities (RCM), the Saguenay Fjord, la Haute-Côte-Nord, and representatives of the three southern shore RCMs (des Basques, Rivière-du-Loup and Kamouraska), the scientific community, and the interpretation and education community.
Since the creation of SSMP in 1998, significant efforts have been made by the involved parties to preserve marine mammals, including beluga. However, its population has continued to decline since then, at a rate of about 1% per year. It now has fewer than 900 individuals. Since the 2000s, there has been a critical and unexplained increase in mortality among newborns and females of reproductive age, which suggests an acceleration of the beluga's decline in the coming years.

The Gaspésie and Maritimes regions, covered in this guide, have been inhabited by the Mi'gmaq people for thousands of years. Today, visitors can still encounter many of these First Nation communities across the area.

In Gaspé, a city with a rich history of French explorer Jacques Cartier's interactions with the Mi'gmaq nation, the Gespeg Micmac Interpretation Site showcases the culture of the local Mi'gmaq community. Through interactive exhibits and guided tours, the site offers a fascinating insight into the history and traditions of the Mi'gmaq people. The on-site shop features a range of authentic, high-quality Mi'gmaq crafts and other Indigenous products from Quebec.

Further along the Baie des Chaleurs, Gesgapegiag is a popular spot for tourists eager to experience the unique attractions of Mi'gmaq territory. Visitors can enjoy a picnic in the community park or marvel at the impressive tipi erected by the sea in 2018.

For those seeking a more immersive experience, the community of Gesgapegiag offers cozy chalets and traditional tipis in Anse Sainte-Hélène. Alternatively, guests can stay aboard a replica of Jacques Cartier's La Grande Hermine, an iconic vessel from the age of exploration. Nearby, hikers and snowmobilers can take advantage of Le Relais de la Cache, located close to the Chic-Chocs mountain range.

One of the most exciting annual events in the region is the Pow-Wow, a traditional festival held every July. This vibrant celebration sees Mi'gmaq people from across the region coming together to share their culture and traditions through song, dance, and storytelling. Everyone is welcome to join in the festivities and experience the warm hospitality of the Mi'gmaq people.

Multiple award-winning Montréal-based artist from Mauritius, Kama La Mackerel, is delighted to present their debut exhibition, Who Sings the Queer Island Body? at the Visual Art Centre's McClure Gallery from March 3 to 25, 2023.

La Mackerel’s work, for the past few years, has sought to question and counter-narrativize dominant colonial island tropes through a queer/trans lens. Their photography series Breaking the Promise of Tropical Emptiness (2017-19), for example, calls into question the colonial legacy of the visual representation of “tropical islands” by questioning the aesthetics of the postcard. In this work, La Mackerel reframes clichés of Mauritian postcards, by foregrounding their transgender body at the centre of the frame. In their most recent work in moving image, poetry, textiles and performance ritual, Queering the Is/land Body (2021), presented at 17th edition of MOMENTA, Biennale de l’image, they explore the spiritual relationship that is sustained between the transgender, racialized body and that of the “island body” in order to bring forth ancestral forms of Indo-African spirituality. In their award-winning debut poetry collection, ZOM-FAM (Metonymy Press, 2020), they invoke ancestral voices of slaves and indentured labour who worked amidst colonial silences on plantation islands.

In Who Sings the Queer Island Body?, La Mackerel expands on their previous body of work to contend with the question of island sovereignty and ocean mapping. In this new work, they further question ocean and island cartographies as these have been documented, archived and communicated through modernity: The sea as aqua nullius, a masculine space that men traverse in order to to go to islands which were regarded as terra nullius, empty feminine spaces to be colonized. Through hybrid creative forms, La Mackerel explores the unruly interstices between photography, video, sound composition, poetry, textiles and performance to offer a decolonial mapping of “the island body” and its relationship to the ocean. Who Sings the Queer Island Body? opens up new aesthetic spaces where trans and decolonial personal, ancestral, geopolitical, geological and ecological narratives make themselves heard.

This new work body of work is also heavily influenced by the tragedy of the MV Wakashio. In July 2020, the MV Wakashio – a Japanese-owned cargo ship sailing under a Panamanian flag of convenience with a team of Indian sailors and on its way to Brazil – ran aground the coral reefs of La Mackerel’s native-island, Mauritius. More than 1,000 tonnes of heavy oil were spilled, impacting the entire south-eastern coastline including ecosystems of wetlands, mangrove forests and a marine reserve. More than 50 melon-head whales and dolphins washed up dead on the island’s coast. For the inhabitants of the south-eastern coast of Mauritius (“the people of the sea,” as they are called), this signaled the end of their traditional way of life.

The tragedy of the MV Wakashio – the biggest ecological disaster in the history of Mauritius – is in many ways embedded in this exhibition. On the one hand, watching this oil spill from afar demanded that the artist work through a deep process of grief for the ecologies, the people, the “island body” in relation to their own queer Mauritian body. On the other hand, the lack of international geopolitical accountability and the failure of any country to take responsibility and take action for this oceanic environmental disaster reinforced the dominant trope of disposability with which islands have been historically construed.

Who Sings the Queer Island Body? then, is an exhibition that is a call for reframing our relationality to island territories, to bodies of water, and to the ecologies of which we are part. At the core of this work, La Mackerel grounds us in an imperative to heal our hearts, to repair our relationship to the island body, to soothe the spirit of the ocean. Through the retellings expressed in the different pieces of this exhibition, Kama La Mackerel reactivates the work of the imagination, so that we can reinvent ourselves, with purpose; so that we can reclaim the very integrity of our human life; so that we can leave a roadmap of beauty, joy, of being in relationship differently, for generations yet to come.

ABOUT KAMA LA MACKEREL

Kama La Mackerel is a Mauritian-Canadian multilingual writer, visual artist, performer, educator and literary translator who believes in love, justice and self and collective empowerment. Their practice blurs the lines between traditional artistic disciplines to create hybrid aesthetic spaces from which decolonial and queer/trans vocabularies can emerge. At once narratological and theoretical, personal and political, their interdisciplinary method, developed over the past decade, is grounded in ritual, meditation, ancestral healing modalities, auto-ethnography, oral history, archival research and community-arts facilitation.

La Mackerel is a firm believer that artistic and cultural practices have the power to build resilience, to heal and to act as forms of resistance to the status quo. With wholehearted engagement in ocean narratives, island sovereignty, transgender poetics and queer/trans spiritual histories, their body of work challenges colonial notions of time and space as these relate to history, power, language, subject formation and the body.

La Mackerel has lectured, performed and exhibited their work internationally in museums, galleries, theatres and universities. In 2021, they were awarded the Canada Council for the Arts' Joseph S. Stauffer Prize for emerging and mid-career artists in Visual Arts. Their award-winning book ZOM-FAM (Metonymy Press) was named a CBC Best Poetry Book and a Globe and Mail Best Debut. Kama La Mackerel lives and loves in Tio’tia:ke, also known as Montréal.

KAMA LA MACKEREL & THE MCCLURE GALLERY

The McClure Gallery at the Visual Arts Centre in Montréal is an independent not-for-profit gallery operating for over twenty years. The gallery has a history of hosting high-quality, professional exhibitions by early, mid and late career artists working in a variety of disciplines. The programming is chosen by a jury made up of professional artists (one from the previous season, two from the teaching staff, one from the community) and board members (many of whom are also artists). The jury was particularly taken by La Mackerel’s exhibition proposal and their interdisciplinary work. The McClure Gallery is committed to supporting this work, particularly given the ongoing systemic barriers that the artist has faced as a racialized, transgender immigrant who is also self-taught.

Photography, video, textile installations, multilingual poetry and audio compositions combine for a debut multimedia exhibition

March 3 to 25, 2023
McClure Gallery