Travel log

coucher du soleil

Sign of the times, the non-profit organization Le Pays de la Sagouine in Bouctouche, which launched its 2024 program on May 1st, is a victim of its own success after 32 years of existence. In just a few minutes, on Thursday, May 3rd, all $100 tickets for Zachary Richard's show "La Louisine au Lumina," scheduled for the evening of August 9th, including a festive Louisiana-flavored dinner, an intimate performance with the artist and his musicians, sold out.

Nevertheless, the executive director of the organization, Monique Poirier, reminds us that the 2024 program offers a large number of activities for everyone from May 4 to December 21, 2024. The program includes theater, entertainment, and music for the whole family, new texts, and more activities on the terrace.

Although the Ile-aux-Puces and the Terrace are open from June 23 to September 1, the full program started on Saturday, May 4, and runs until December 21, 2024.

Sagouine
Some new features are added in 2024: a grand show "Au pays imaginaire," Nounours Theater "L’heure du conte Bouton d’Or Acadie," two more days of music on the terrace on Wednesdays and Sundays, and new adaptations for the Clin d'œil à la Sagouine.

Sagouine Sagouine
Le Pays de la Sagouine is a cultural destination where Acadian traditions are alive and joy prevails. For over 30 years, the small theatrical village located on an island in the middle of Bouctouche Bay has been buzzing all summer around the imagination of Antonine Maillet, creator of La Sagouine and many other beloved characters.

It is a unique tourist attraction in Canada. Indeed, it is entirely derived from a literary work. More than 150 people contribute their talent and energy to ensure presentations throughout the season on the mainland site and at Île-aux-Puces.

Sagouine
Le Pays de la Sagouine is open from Wednesday to Sunday but will be closed on August 16 due to the Acadian National Holiday.
For ticketing (site visits and shows), visit the website www.sagouine.com, the offices of Le Pays de la Sagouine, or purchase by phone.

For those planning to visit in November or December 2024, Le Pays de la Sagouine presents its 25th edition of its traditional Christmas dinner show from November 14 to December 21. Details (dates and information) are available at www.sagouine.com in the ticketing section.

Le Pays de la Sagouine (administration)
57, rue de l’Acadie
Bouctouche, NB E4S 2T7
1-800-561-9188
(closed between noon and 1 pm)

Akadi Lumina: Shedding Light on the Culture
From May 17 to October 14, in the evening after sunset, Akadi Lumina offers a magical 1.5 km nocturnal journey to encounter a vibrant culture. For a second year, the public is invited to discover a multimedia entertainment path designed by Moment Factory, a luminous and immersive trail, the first of its kind in Atlantic Canada.

Sagouine
No one leaves indifferent to this experience that combines light, projections, special effects, soundscapes, and original music, all in a real forest specially designed for this purpose.

Inspired by Acadian culture and history and the region's iconic landscapes, the presentation follows a walking trail near the Pays de la Sagouine site. The whole family will undoubtedly enjoy this sensational show.

Check the full schedule and rates on the website akadilumina.ca or by phone at 1-800-561-9188.

An authentically Mexican restaurant in the heart of Caraquet, in Acadia? This has been a reality since 2022. Forget some fast-food joints that offer "Mexican" dishes, which are far from representing the gastronomic delights of a country whose cuisine is undoubtedly one of the most varied and refined in the Americas.


All of this came about after the meeting of an authentic Mexican, Rodolfo Cantu, originally from the city of Monterrey, and a pure Acadian, Marie-Pier Cormier. The couple envisioned their project based on a menu of traditional gastronomic dishes inspired by Mexican cuisine, using local and regional products. The result: flavorful, fresh, and unique dishes.

Casa Guajillo
The menu is simple yet varied. The dishes may vary according to the season and the arrival of products. Charcoal grilling and wood smoking, on highly professional and modern equipment, ensure exceptional quality for meats, among other things.

Casa Guajillo Casa Guajillo
We enjoyed the tasting menu, which offers four different dishes. For starters, a shrimp cocktail, cut into pieces, in a savory sauce enhanced with avocado and seasoned tomatoes. A delight for the taste buds.

Casa Guajillo
Next came the duo of Ensenada tacos (battered fish) and Pollo a la Parrilla (chicken), both made with corn flour and exquisitely prepared with accompanying sauces. In the third place, it was the Cochinita Pibil, Yucatan-style braised pork, which added a truly surprising touch of taste and flavor to the meal.

Casa Guajillo
To finish, the Pastel Tres Leches (three milk cake) came to close this series of dishes, leaving no room for restraint or disappointment.

Casa Guajillo
The restaurant also offers various cocktails, tequilas, and mezcals, as well as pairing wines to start the meal or accompany the dishes.
Another element that adds to the pleasure of a meal at Casa Guajillo: it is housed in a more than century-old building that has been creatively and colorfully decorated, as Mexicans know how to do. It can accommodate 22 people, and groups of up to 12 guests. It is also possible to reserve for private events (parties, office parties, etc.).


Marie-Pier, at the bar and service, and Rodolfo in the kitchen, are proud to contribute to diversifying the restaurant offerings in Caraquet and the region with their Mexican gastronomic experience. The numerous clientele has already embraced the place for two years, which is a source of joy for the restaurateur couple.

Casa Guajillo
618, boul. Saint-Pierre
Caraquet, NB E1W 1A2
506 727-4696
facebook.com/casaguajillo

According to many, Gérald Leblanc was a poet of youth and urbanity. On May 30, 2005, the artist succumbed to a long battle with cancer at the age of 59. Originally from Bouctouche, he influenced Acadian cultural life in numerous ways.

Acadia lost one of its most illustrious poets, for whom the search for personal roots served as a springboard for a fundamentally Acadian voice. His poetic language is that of "chiac," the dialect of southeastern New Brunswick, of which Leblanc was the undisputed champion. His poetic voice, rich and abundant, proudly asserts itself without seeking any external validation.

 
Éloge du chiac Gérald Leblanc
Author of an anthology of Acadian poetry, he stimulated other voices. His poetry poses the following question: "What is Acadian identity?" His literary work is immense, with multiple themes. In 1986, the author celebrated the absolute of love in "Lieux transitoires" and took the opportunity to affirm his homosexuality.

Lieux Transitoires Gérald Leblanc

He led Éditions Perce-Neige in Moncton, a publishing house dedicated to new Acadian literature, from 1991 until his death. During this period, he organized numerous literary evenings and meetings. He was also one of the main lyricists for the group 1755, which made a splash in the 70s. He is credited with several Acadian song classics, some of which were covered by Marie-Jo Thériault.

This prolific and committed man of letters also shared on several occasions what inspired and shocked him. In a long correspondence (Lettres à mon ami américain 1967-2003) maintained with his cousin Joseph Olivier Roy, an American teacher of Acadian origin, comprising 161 letters written over 36 years, he shared his interest in literature and his personal evolution alongside that of Acadia over the years.

He also addresses elements that reveal much about his personality: "Alcoholics, whores, religious fanatics, homosexuals, etc. I have very, very vicious blood flowing through my veins; I have a heritage full of passion, hatred, debauchery, and sin (note that I do not say LOVE, finally, funny race)."

Leblanc states that he has "always loved writing letters" and that Roy was just one among his many correspondents of that time: " […] about fifteen people, ten 'Gay boys,' one lesbian, a few others of these 'normal' beings over the last ten years, if we collected all my correspondence, there would be enough to fill at least 2,000 volumes."

Rodrigue Jean's feature-length documentary "L’extrême frontière" (2006) at the NFB celebrates poet Gérald Leblanc. Combining wandering and belonging, this child of the Beat Generation lived far from all taboos and propelled Acadia into modernity. The film was released a year after the poet's death.

In 2020, at the initiative of two university professors, the City of Moncton inaugurated a park now bearing his name right in front of the city hall.

Parc Gérald-Leblanc Moncton

On the heights of Campbellton, near the Restigouche River, stands a grand manor over a hundred years old that Philippe Lévesque acquired, renovated, and lovingly furnished with good taste over the past seven years, a true passion project. But what will first delight travelers who visit is the lush and vast garden that surrounds the property.


The owner's background in botany is evident in the profusion of flowers and plants of all kinds that can be admired from May to October. Not to mention the large number of green plants and other types of greenery that occupy various spaces inside.

Maison Napier

Maison Napier
On its three floors, rooms and suites filled with antique or vintage furniture make this cottage a place where history and regional traditions have converged since 2022, all year round. This lover of vegetation and nature cultivates the art of warm hospitality as much as that of the plants in the vast garden.

Maison Napier Maison Napier
According to some comments read on the booking site, the quality of the stay at Maison Napier is noteworthy. “The architecture and associated furniture, Napier House has retained its charm! Philippe's welcome is very warm, the breakfast just perfect, with silverware and homemade jams,” can be read among the mentions.

From the entrance, you can smell something baking in the oven, which adds to the pleasure of the stay. Breakfasts are always a precious moment of the day.

Maison Napier
Maison Napier offers 4 bedrooms and a two-bedroom apartment for rent daily or weekly. The house's decor is in keeping with its architectural style and age, but it offers all the comforts of modern life.

Maison Napier
Its host and owner continues his work of landscaping and renovating the residence which once hosted a senior American executive of a manufacturing company who stayed there with his family during his tenure with the Campbellton company.

Philippe Lévesque

Worth noting, the place is only a few steps from the Interprovincial Bridge that connects Listuguj and Pointe-à-la-Croix at the start of the Baie des Chaleurs in Quebec, and the Restigouche region on the New Brunswick side.

Maison Napier
5 Stanley Street
Campbellton, NB
506-760-1945
phili664.wixsite.com/maison-napier

Crossing the Matapedia Valley, one reaches the Restigouche River, into which the Matapedia flows. The Restigouche empties into the Chaleur Bay in the heart of the Appalachians. It is a river globally renowned as a salmon river and part of Canadian heritage. The name Restigouche comes from the Anglicization of Listuguj, the name of the Mi'gmaq community that camped along its banks hundreds of years before the arrival of the first French colonizers. Even today, the community of Listuguj, one of the most significant Mi'gmaq communities in the Maritimes, stands on the Quebec side opposite the town of Campbellton in New Brunswick.

Campbellton
On the right bank of the Restigouche, the newly merged town of Campbellton forms, along with the communities of Listuguj and Pointe-à-la-Croix connected by the interprovincial bridge, the most significant conurbation in the Chaleur Bay with its some 15,000 inhabitants.
The Mi'kmaq called the site Wisiamkik, meaning muddy place, referring to the sediments in the narrows of the Restigouche. The site was named Pointe-des-Sauvages around 1700 during the French colonial era, and a small village was founded there by deported Acadians in 1755, while more than 1,000 deportees settled across in Petite-Rochelle. This significant village only had a brief existence as it was razed under the orders of James Wolfe after the fall of New France in 1760. The site became a mere trading post for decades as the Acadians dispersed and founded various villages around Chaleur Bay. The town truly emerged with Scottish immigration to the region in the early 19th century. The town originally bore various names. The current name was given in 1833 in honor of Sir Archibald Campbell, Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunswick from 1831 to 1837.


When you reach the end of the road leading to the tip of the peninsula and spot the vast seaside estate featuring a 24-room hotel including an aesthetic care center (spa), a convention center, and 33 chalets available for rent scattered about, one realizes the scale of the welcoming place.
The site impresses with its magnitude, its streets marked like those in a village, its tranquility, and the sense of well-being it exudes, thanks to a uniquely designed layout. A stay will convince even the hardest to please. The hotel offers all the amenities one might expect from such a location. Breakfast is included and served in a room with a full sea view, but no other meals are provided during the day. Several dining options are available a short distance away in the town of Tracadie.
Villégiature Deux Rivières truly provides hotel service worthy of major hotel chains, but without the associated constraints. Martin Albert, a native son with an MBA in Business Administration from the Université de Moncton, has been the general manager since 2013. Albert was previously the general manager of the municipality of Paquetteville.

“What sets Villégiature Deux Rivières apart from chain hotels is that everything is decided and managed locally,” explains its general manager.

Deux Rivières Villégiature Martin Albert is proud to have been part of this wonderful adventure for nearly 10 years. For him, the mission and vision of Villégiature Deux Rivières are part of his everyday life. Although the place has already become a staple for quality accommodation and stays in recent years, he aims to make it “the preferred destination in Atlantic Canada, where guests can capture unforgettable Acadian-flavored memories.”
The introduction of a bike path in the area has attracted a new clientele for whom the environmental tranquility of the place, with the omnipresence of the sea and breathtaking sunrises, are key attractions. In winter, the snowmobile trails also bring many visitors.

A story that began almost 25 years ago.


It was in 1999 that the adventure of the Deux Rivières Resort Center began in Tracadie-Sheila. The municipality had entrusted the Two Rivers of Tracadie Development Corporation (CDDRT) with developing this exceptional site.
From then on, thanks to a public-private partnership agreement between a group of local investors and the CDDRT, construction of 33 chalets began. The following year, the convention center was built. In 2001, 17 new chalets were added. Then in 2009, a 20-room hotel was built. Just in time for the World Acadian Congress.

In 2012, the company underwent a name change to become Villégiature Deux Rivières, better reflecting the services offered by the business. In 2013, the Two Rivers Development Corporation of the municipality withdrew from the resort center, which is now fully managed by this corporation of owner investors.

The company wanted to grow and have enough accommodations to host medium-sized conventions on the site. The chalet investors then became shareholders of the hotel with the registration of a Deux Rivières Hotel corporation to oversee its management.

Villégiature Deux Rivières
www.deuxrivieres.ca
100, rue Deux Rivières
Tracadie-Sheila, N.B.
506.394.4050

Located in downtown Moncton, the Aberdeen Cultural Centre is a historic building that houses several cultural organizations and artists' studios, serving as an important gathering place for the artistic community in southeastern New Brunswick.

 
It is also the location of the restaurant Les Brumes du Coude, which opened in 2014 with chef Michel Savoie at the helm. The bistro quickly made its mark among the top 100 restaurants in Canada. It offers simple and tasty cuisine—a true French bistro cuisine, a result of his seven years of cooking in France. 

Brumes du Coude

The restaurant is housed in a former classroom of the Aberdeen School, which became the Aberdeen Cultural Centre in 1986. In 2017, the centre added a 50-seat cultural terrace, managed by Les Brumes du Coude during the summer season. 

Brumes du Coude

So, where does the name of his restaurant come from? The city of Moncton is known for its Petitcodiac River, whose name means "which bends like a bow" in Mi'kmaq. The Acadians who settled there in 1733 called this place Le Coude because of the bend in this powerful brown river, where the mists from the marshes hide. To this day, Moncton is still nicknamed Le Coude.

However, the name Les Brumes du Coude has a very different meaning for the owner-chef Michel Savoie. He explains this term as being a description of what inspires him in cooking: the misty smells of simmered dishes, the vapors that are the result of physical effort, or elbow grease. 

Brumes du Coude Brumes du Coude

His cuisine is generous, fair, and on point, in the spirit of a French bistro. Inspired by seasonal local and sea products, it features a blend of French, Acadian, and other culinary traditions. "There is always something new to discover at Les Brumes du Coude because, just like the menu, the wine and cocktail list is constantly evolving. The team at Les Brumes du Coude will be pleased to welcome you to this lively, warm, and friendly space," he explains.

Brumes du Coude

Originally from Tabusintac, a small village north of Néguac, Michel Savoie was not destined for the restaurant business. Before the end of his high school studies, he had not really shown an interest in cooking. Financial reasons did not allow him to attend university. At 18, with no particular qualifications, he found himself working in a kitchen, starting as a dishwasher. Gradually, he discovered a certain talent in the pots and pans.

He has been in the restaurant industry for about twenty years, mainly in Montreal and Tours, France, often holding positions at the lower end of the hierarchy. His move to France was because he followed his then-wife, who was French. Did he receive formal culinary training? He spent a few months at the ITHQ in his early twenties but was unable to complete the training due to financial constraints. 

His desire to combat pervasive junk food, even in Moncton, motivated him to move forward with opening his own restaurant.

Brumes du Coude

Could he be contributing to the reinvention of Acadian cuisine with his attempts to revalue local products? He would rather cook as much as possible with local and sea products from here. One might call it Acadian cuisine if the terroir in question corresponded to an Acadian territory. However, he prefers not to get involved in the thorny debate over the borders of Acadia.
In the meantime, we have the leisure and privilege of enjoying the place, its charming decor, its enticing menu, and the beautiful culinary discoveries that Michel Savoie shares with his clientele. And if you are a fan of mussels, know that the best of the kind have been savored here, in proportions to satisfy the greatest appetites.


Les Brumes du Coude
lesbrumesducoude.com
140 Botsford Street
Moncton, NB E1C 4X5
506 858-0777

chezboulay

Both a capital as well as a sought-after tourist destination, Québec is a city offering a wide variety of fine dining establishments. Among the dozens of restaurants in the very popular Old Québec neighborhood, one can find the finest tables and most prestigious chefs in the city. Much importance is given to local produce and the menus are widely inspired by French cuisine. This great culinary tradition is largely the result of the efforts of the late Serge Bruyère, who was a precursor of new cuisine in Québec, updating French traditions as early as the 1970s.

From fast-food to haute cuisine, there are upwards of 2500 restaurants in the greater Québec city area, representing a ratio of 350 restaurants for every inhabitant, which is 3 times more than in New York! There are endless choices for every visitor. Beyond the Old Québec neighborhood, other areas such as Grande Allée, Cartier and René-Lévesque Streets near the National Assembly are positively crawling with great restaurants, many of which offer lively terraces in the summertime.

Many gay-friendly cafés and bistros can be discovered (or rediscovered) on Saint-Jean Street in the heart of the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste. The Nouvo Saint-Roch has also more recently emerged as a sought-after destination. The Saint-Roch and Saint-Sauveur neighborhoods offer many restaurants featuring a diverse selection of food from around the world. The more affluent Sillery neighborhood also offers excellent restaurants, among them those housed by Université Laval as well as many hotels and shopping malls along Laurier Boulevard.

Although Québec proudly displays its French character and traditions, and probably as a result of having always been a capital focused on tourism for over a century, no regional specialties are really associated with the city. That being said, Québec’s gastronomic trademark is associated with the best that French cuisine can offer and local produce of exceptional culinary quality.

Glenn-Crawford

Glenn Crawford was the instigator of the Build Our Bank and LGBT Village initiatives in the famously reserved capital since starting the volunteer-run project in 2007. While he has recently stepped down as president of The Village, making room for new ideas from successor Ian Capstick, Crawford has left an indelible mark on a town where there wasn’t a lot of consensus about creating a gay village.

Born out of town hall meetings about the reconstruction of Bank Street, the idea of designating the stretch between Wellington and Gladstone as The Village was about “trying to get a sense of belonging and place, where people feel they can be themselves, have access to services, fool around and shop,” Crawford says. “Gradually a lot of LGBTQ organizations have coalesced into this area… Forming The Village was a natural progression.” When he started fundraising and participating in public advisory committees five years ago, Crawford came up against both the veiled homophobia of a local business improvement association, as well as criticism from the LGBT community that the project was coming 10-20 years too late.

“People were asking Why do we want to create a ghetto? A lot of that criticism comes from people who are out [of the closet],” Glenn says with his typical incisiveness, “from people who have the relationship, two dogs and friend circle. I don’t need a Village either! It’s for people who are struggling in suburban or rural areas; it can be for everyone.” And as a child of the sleepy, inaccessible suburb of Kanata – “not an easy place to grow up gay” – Crawford speaks from experience. Like most LGBT people in any Village in any major city anywhere, the urban geographic bubble exists as much for townies as it does for people who have moved there to escape the stifling places they come from.

And lest you think that Crawford’s project was for commercial reasons alone, it may seem counterintuitive that he’s not a shop-keeper himself, but rather a website and graphic designer who lives just off Bank and works part time in a local gallery. “There’s a social aspect to it. Taking pride in who you are and finding a sense of value in there being a community,” which for him includes keeping the subsidized housing in the area, and watching out for condo development that could “force out the funkier elements.”

“It’s [about] putting roots down; people say it’s 20 years too late, but for me it’s just in time,” Glenn concludes. Echoing a theme that has emerged in everything from architecture to sociology, he adds that “The online world is not the same as having a real community. I worry about that, about younger generations, they’re not valuing the sense of community.”

So maybe when you walk by the “We Demand” mural that The Village commissioned on Gladstone and Bank Streets, you might get a sense of what that community looks like and is for, and clap your fairy hands for Glenn Crawford. Photo by Noreen Fagan

Aficionados are well-aware that Cantharellus cibarius, known in French as girolle or Chanterelle commune, is a species of basidiomycete fungi belonging to the Cantharellaceae family. This mushroom, widespread across the Northern Hemisphere, is esteemed for its culinary excellence, ranking among the most renowned and sought-after in its category.

By analogy, the same can be said for the French "bring your own wine" restaurant La Girolle, nestled in Quebec's Saint-Sacrement neighborhood, which has been a well-known and sought-after destination for 23 years. Owned by Chef David Grenier (photo) since 2018, the establishment has preserved the spirit and values of its founders while naturally evolving its menu over the years and seasons.

La Girolle

Let's highlight some of the famous dishes available. Starters include: Deluxe Charcuterie Plate, Escargot Pastry in Cheese Sauce, Flavors of L'ile d'Orléans, Bison Carpaccio with Truffle Emulsion. Main courses particularly appreciated are: Scallop and Shrimp Risotto, Grilled Lamb Loin with Spanish Sauce, Duck Breast with Port and Serviceberry, Braised Sweetbreads à la Forestière, Land and Sea / Black Pudding with Spices, Deer in Mushroom Crust with Périgord Sauce, Salmon Pavé with Mango Salsa, Chef's Style Beef Fillet Mignon, Pork Tenderloin with Cheddar Fondue and Balsamic.

La Girolle La Girolle

Grenier, before acquiring the restaurant, had been actively involved in various kitchen roles, from dishwasher to cook, starting at the age of 18. Despite not attending prestigious culinary schools or holding renowned degrees in hospitality, his merit includes stints at famed establishments during travels in Australia and around the world, where he honed and developed his culinary skills.

Alongside the previous owners of La Girolle, he has cultivated the art of dining based on dishes that continue to contribute to the place's fame and draw a loyal clientele, in addition to developing an entirely new menu. Since Grenier took over, there have been no major changes to the venue: the carpet was removed, and some minor renovations were made. His motivation lies in maintaining consistent quality in the cuisine, always in line with market availability and seasonally affordable products.

La Girolle 

In addition to the regular menu displayed on large wheeled blackboards, which changes with the seasons, one can always order frozen dishes for takeout, offering meals distinct from the regular menu and complementing the dining room offerings. This product, even post the 2000-2001 pandemic, continues to enjoy success. They also offer various takeout and reheat dishes (soups, salads, charcuteries, sweetbreads, black pudding, pork tenderloin, for example).

La Girolle

Indeed, La Girolle remains one of the rare "bring your own wine" (or beer) restaurants in Quebec City, a concept David Grenier assures will not change. This format is highly appreciated six evenings and three afternoons each week, from August to June. Its location outside tourist districts allows a month-long July vacation for the team of approximately 25 employees.

La Girolle

La Girolle can accommodate up to 140 guests in the evening, from Tuesday to Sunday, with 106 seats spread across two distinct sections. Reservations are recommended, especially from Friday to Sunday. Workers and residents of the neighborhood frequent it for lunch from Wednesday to Friday.

For history enthusiasts, the establishment Les Prés had been located here since 1990. La Girolle has been operating at this address since 2000.

La Girolle

Restaurant La Girolle
lagirolle.ca
1384, Chemin Sainte-Foy
Québec, QC, G1S 2N6
(418) 527-4141

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