Laval's Black Forest: the charm of yesteryear with today's tastes
In Laval’s Sainte-Rose neighbourhood, just steps from the rivière des Mille-Îles, an old ancestral house dating from 1834 has been home to a restaurant for more than 40 years. Local regulars knew it as La Vieille Histoire until Jean-François Pépin and Mélanie Joannette decided to buy it.
Since 2017, the couple have been living a long-held dream through their restaurant, Black Forest – Cuisine urbaine. The concept grew from an idea of sharing and discovering the senses. Textures, flavours and innovation come together to create an urban culinary journey.
To understand what led to the acquisition, it helps to know that restaurants have been part of the Pépin family’s DNA for at least three generations. Jean-François’s grandfather and father both ran restaurants before him. In the 2010s, he also worked in the industry, including four years operating a catering service for an aviation-services company in Mirabel. The couple then began looking for a restaurant, and an opportunity arose on boulevard Sainte-Rose in Laval.
From the outset, Jean-François and Mélanie chose to transform the restaurant’s style and menu, making a complete break with its previous tradition. They nevertheless preserved the warm atmosphere of a cosy cottage from days gone by, something guests feel as soon as they enter. Modern decorative elements subtly refresh the interior. Warm colours, woodwork and a layout designed for comfort and conversation immerse diners in its charm.
It is the menu, changing monthly and with the seasons, that lets the chefs’ creativity whet the appetite. Having created around 800 gourmet tapas since 2017, the Black Forest team invites diners into its epicurean world. Jean-François Pépin, who leads the kitchen with his deputies, favours local ingredients and products from Québec’s terroir. They are prepared through a globally inspired culinary vision shaped by many influences.
Food-and-wine pairing is another speciality of this 19-employee restaurant. The owner is an accomplished sommelier for whom wine is a genuine passion. The wine list combines private imports with quality selections from the SAQ, chosen to complement the tasting menu.
The à la carte menu consists of dishes designed for sharing, but the tasting menu is an even better way to experience the restaurant. It begins with a bite of the day followed by 10 dishes from the monthly menu. The selection always includes two raw preparations, such as ceviche and vegetable tartare; two house-made pasta dishes; two protein-centred dishes; two fish or seafood dishes; and two vegetarian dishes. An original dessert can be added to complete the meal.
Each dish is portioned for four diners but can be adjusted for three or six. In addition to wine, the restaurant offers a wide range of craft beers and delicious cocktails to accompany the meal.
Black Forest also offers takeout, a service that proved especially popular during the COVID-19 pandemic. Groups can be accommodated in a dedicated room. Diners may choose the more discreet dining room or the bar area beside the kitchen. In summer, the terrace on the front veranda is particularly popular.
As if that were not enough, in 2022 the restaurateur couple extended their culinary venture by opening a second Black Forest in Terrebonne. It has its own distinctive identity, atmosphere, décor and menu, attracting customers from both the local area and the wider region.
Le Black Forest – Cuisine urbaine
leblackforest.ca
284, boul. Sainte-Rose
Laval (Québec) H7L 1M3
(450) 937-1200