Travel log

Located at the western entrance to Rivière-au-Renard, a sector of the City of Gaspé, just 5 km from the stunning Forillon National Park, Auberge Le Caribou offers a comfortable stay in harmony with the sea. The property has 39 motel rooms and two cottages, plus the Resto-Pub La Révolte, where you can enjoy a heated terrace with ocean views in the summer. Just steps from the port and marina, it's easy to be charmed by the warm atmosphere and the invitation to unwind in a setting that's especially pleasant year-round.

The man who took over in January 2020, just before the COVID pandemic hit and led to a general closure of non-essential businesses, didn't let events get him down. Mathieu Samuel started working at La Révolte, the restaurant at Auberge Le Caribou, at 18, in 2011. Over the years, he learned the ropes of running such an establishment, until the day the owner let him know he intended to sell.

In the village of about 3,000 people where he was born and raised, and where his family already has a tradition of entrepreneurship, few tourism businesses stay open year-round, and he could see himself taking over this one. "Le Caribou has been around since 1930; several generations have passed through it," he explains. "The business interested me. So I told the owner to come see me when he wanted to sell. But it really happened faster than expected," he says in an interview.

After accepting the position of Director of Operations in spring 2019, while pursuing business management studies at Université Laval, he would officially become the owner in January 2020.

Thanks to sound management, the employees' goodwill, and the return of tourists to Gaspésie starting in summer 2021, the business fared well. They used this time to renovate all the rooms and the two cottages. The goal was to move from being a "roadside Highway 132 motel" to a sought-after destination.

The ambitious new owner also plans to add 6 to 8 cottages to meet demand from certain guests, including families.

With around thirty employees, some of whom have been with the company for a very long time, he feels well-positioned to maintain the establishment's success. The restaurant, which operates year-round, seven days a week, serving three meals a day, also employs immigrant workers, particularly Africans and Malagasy. This committed Gaspésien strives daily to bring a youthful touch to La Révolte, especially in the menus, and to attract customers his own age by following market trends.

 

The owner makes no secret of his grand ambitions for his business: "I want everyone to know the establishment as a must-visit stop. I want tourists to come and enjoy what we have to offer." Not to mention the view from his inn, on the edge of the Gulf and two minutes from the beach.

A private room is available for meals or business meetings, family gatherings, or get-togethers with friends. Meal, beverage, snack, and buffet service is available on request.

And for those wondering where the name La Révolte comes from, we have to go back to the history of this village. In August 1909, fishing companies cut the price paid per quintal of salt cod, the main product traded by the fishermen of Rivière-au-Renard, by 30%. Over 150 years ago, part of the Auberge Le Caribou existed as the William Fruing and Company. It was on the current site of the Auberge Le Caribou that fishermen revolted against the Jersey companies. Naming the Resto-Pub La Révolte in honour of this event was only natural.

Auberge Le Caribou
Resto-bar La Révolte
aubergelecaribou.ca
82, boulevard Renard Ouest
Gaspé (Qc), Canada
G4X 5H1
(418) 269-3344

It is scientifically established that humanity is the result of several million years of evolution. First present in the oceans in various forms, living species moved onto land and generated major transformations and mutations.

Today, people take pleasure in returning from time to time to their origins, particularly when it comes to satisfying their palates. Seafood is what motivated the Acadian restaurateur couple, chef Benjamin Cormier and his partner and associate, Monique Snow, to create Origines Cuisine maritime in Caraquet in 2018.

Today, the restaurant is renowned for the quality of its dishes and the freshness of its ingredients, while offering an inspiring setting for diners with its sea view. The menu is all the more inspiring for featuring unique and original dishes, all conceived and created from Maritime provinces ingredients prepared using French techniques.

Chef Benjamin Cormier has several years of experience in cooking and seafood preparation. Among other establishments, he honed his skills at the renowned Brumes du coude in Moncton. Now, he brings this experience to the guests of Origines, with a tasting menu of about ten courses and a three-course set menu that always offers two options for each course.
The menus change with the seasons and tides, but they always feature flavours inspired by the Maritime terroir and are created from products sourced from local and regional suppliers.

Benjamin loves challenges and was able to take on a major one in 2023 at the Acadian Poetry Festival. During an activity presented at the festival's closing, under the theme of Poetic Gastronomy – Devouring Tongues, he was asked to create dishes inspired by the works of five poets, which were served during a five-course gastronomic meal.

To dine at Origines Cuisine maritime, it's best to make a reservation. Opening days and hours vary from season to season. It is open year-round except for a break in January.

Origines Cuisine maritime
originescuisinemaritime.com
49A, boul. Saint-Pierre
Caraquet, NB E1W 1B6
506 727-2717

Almost at the eastern tip of the island, the site offers views of the great Saint-Laurent stretching as far as the eye can see. The fine trees along the road offer a cool oasis where one lingers to read or simply admire the landscape. Entering the main building, standing here since 1961, visitors are struck by the splendour of the reception desk, its lines echoing those of a schooner's railing. A unique piece, made by a long-time artisan employee.

The memory of Captain Desbiens, grandfather of the current owner, is omnipresent here. His cap, photos, and various artifacts are scattered across the floor and walls of the reception area and adjoining dining room.
Why come here? "For happiness," replies Marcelle Tremblay, the reception manager. Seven rooms in the hotel and 13 more in the adjacent motel. Pets welcome. Heated river-water pool. Spa and sauna. The renowned Saturday dinner concerts in high season, hosted by the hostess herself.

Speaking of the dining room, its menu changes daily. A mix of regional terroir products and traditional cuisine. Variety is a constant.

So many stories and legends can be felt in this welcoming place. The lives of sailors have always permeated this island's history. We've all seen or heard of the films about the boats, the schooners, and the daily lives of the island's fishermen and sailors by filmmaker Pierre Perrault, a son of Charlevoix. In this hotel, you can feel its moods, and the walls recount great fragments of them.

Hôtel du Capitaine
hotelducapitaine.com
3033, chemin des Coudriers
Île-aux-Coudres. Qc
418.438.2242

The moment you step into this long building, perched on a promontory overlooking the island's final stretch into the great river, you're transported elsewhere. Not that the decor is from another era, but a history lingers, with baker Laurin Dufour making bread here for 50 years.
Boulangerie Bouchard is an institution on the island, and even 'overseas' (meaning the mainland territories of Charlevoix and beyond). Cyclists riding along chemin des Coudriers have adopted the place as a bike rest stop, taking the opportunity to fill up before setting off again.

The legendary crooked pâté of the Isle

They serve some of the most enticing meal platters, including the crooked pâté, whose 'probable' history is brilliantly told by owner Noëlle-Ange Harvey. There seems to be more than one version of this legend. Here's one the baker swears is true. Before the arrival of schooners and later ferries, the islanders had only canoes to reach the north shore. Until 1954, several valiant 'crossers' braved the river with its seasonal constraints and often extreme conditions.
These boatmen transported provisions, mail, schoolchildren, and the sick on a daily basis. Each day, everyone made sure to bring their own meal for the crossing. The small, round meat pie was the staple dish. This little pie didn't stay round for long at the bottom of the canoe, up in the bow, in the thick of the crossing. With the pitching and rolling, the pie often ended up all 'crooked.'

While discussing this with his wife, one of the boatmen suggested she make her pies in a half-moon shape. This way, they would be easier to handle and eat with one hand. That was all it took for the boatman's suggestion to become the norm, and this little delicacy was christened the 'crooked pâté.'

Every day, you can savour dishes made from Charlevoix's rich terroir. You can also buy artisanal breads and breads made with flour from the island's mills. And you'll find everything you need for a good country picnic.

In the back room, they still work with some of the original equipment, including the dough mixer and ovens, which are still in working order. In summer, on sunny days or during the peak tourist season, it's not uncommon to see long queues of people waiting to buy bread... or many other baked goods.

Boulangerie Bouchard
boulangeriebouchard.com
1648, chemin des Coudriers
Île-aux-Coudres (Qc) G0A 3J0
418.438.2454

Having moved to Les Méchins a year ago, Daphné and Elaine were making a dream come true: living by the sea. They had fallen in love with this little yellow house in the heart of Les Méchins, with its uninterrupted view of the sea. In this Matanie, which enjoys some of the most beautiful sunsets in Québec, they felt they were in paradise. The stars aligned, and they bought it last year.

They immediately saw the opportunity to share their little piece of paradise with friends. So they converted a loft on the ground floor. This comfortable two-bedroom vacation rental with its own entrance can easily accommodate 3 to 5 people. With its kitchen, living room, and dining area, guests are fully self-sufficient. And as a bonus, they have access to the small private beach right in front of the house at the mouth of the little river, whose waters are swimmable in the summer. 

In the heart of the village, near the wharf and the municipal park by the sea, it's an excellent spot for observing marine mammals or collecting seashells on the shore. At the edge of the Matanie, Les Méchins borders Cap-Chat and Sainte-Anne-des-Monts. The loft can therefore serve as a base for visiting the attractions of the Matanie as well as those of Cap-Chat or Ste-Anne-des-Monts, and the Chic-chocs Mountains in the hinterland.

And of course, it's a very welcoming place for LGBT tourists. Although it's easy to find since everyone in Les Méchins knows La Petite Maison jaune and its new hosts, I'll give you the contact details.

The Little Yellow House
514.895.5294

ribeler2@gmail.com

In l'Anse St-Jean, Le Bistro La Chasse-Pinte, which celebrated its 20th anniversary in 2022, has little to do with a cauldron. It's worth noting that the term is linked to the famous tourtière: the one from Lac-Saint-Jean, of course, but in the Saguenay it is first cooked in a 'chasse-pinte', a corruption of the English word saucepan, which means 'frying pan'. That said, the chasse-pinte looks more like a large pot.

In 2002, a group of residents of L'Anse-Saint-Jean transformed a former fishing camp belonging to the Price family into a small cultural bistro. Very quickly, Bistro de l'Anse became an essential social hub, with a rich cultural life. Today, the establishment is recognized as a true institution throughout the region. It offers a menu of original dishes, serves beers and cocktails, and hosts a variety of musical performances throughout the summer, bringing together well-known and lesser-known artists.

In 2013, a solidarity cooperative was created to establish a microbrewery. The cooperative then acquired the bistro, which now bears the name Chasse-pinte, as does the microbrewery that began operations in 2015 in the former fire station. Since then, the microbrewery has been creating beers that draw on the richness of boreal forest botany. They can be sampled at the Bistro and found at retailers throughout Québec.

The microbrewery employs about ten people who oversee the production of various types of organic beers, including Peau-de-Lièvre, a wheat beer with flowers, and Crochetée, an amber ale with Labrador tea, which are among the most popular of the twenty or so beers brewed there. They are classified under the categories Classic, Creative, Hoppy, and Unique Brews.

More recently, in 2021, a small shop was set up next to the Bistro (in a former snack bar), selling the microbrewery's various beers, t-shirts, caps, etc., and other souvenirs, along with local products from Ferme d'en haut, Ail du Moulin and Délices du Lac-Saint-Jean, as well as about ten agri-food products.

Regarding future development projects, the cooperative's marketing director, Ève Breton, explains that they will focus on consolidating their three current products, in addition to adding a line of ready-to-eat meals and prepared dishes available at the shop. This will allow them to better meet demand, which the Bistro itself can no longer meet, given its constantly growing popularity year after year.

L'Anse-Saint-Jean is increasingly becoming a creative community, brimming with outdoor activities, making it the perfect place to spend a summer filled with wonderful encounters and nature. Cruising, boating, kayaking and other seasonal activities attract people eager to enjoy the products and services on offer. The Bistro has become a victim of its own success, and that's why the cooperative wants to make its high-quality cuisine accessible to as many people as possible.

The Coopérative de solidarité La Chasse-Pinte employs nearly 40 people annually. It has over 1100 members.

Bistro La Chasse-Pinte
chasse-pinte.com
319, rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste
Boutique La Chasse-Pinte
317, rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste
L'Anse-Saint-Jean, Qc G0V 1J0
418 272-4222

The artisanal microbrewery La Compagnie, in Sept-Îles, was the first to set up in the region in 2018. It then became the fourth microbrewery to open on the Côte-Nord in less than two years, after St-Pancrace in Baie-Comeau, the Tadoussac microbrewery and La Mouche in Natashquan.

Marie-Pier Johnson, co-owner of La Compagnie, explains that the concept was two years in the making before work began on transforming the space next to the Convention Centre, in the former bowling alley downtown. In addition to brewing equipment, it includes a pub with seating for 85, a boutique, and a stunning outdoor terrace overlooking the sea.

The company's name is tied to the city's history. "People who came to work in Sept-Îles came to work for the company, which refers to IOC. We wanted to reflect this in every aspect of the project, from the names of the beers to the decor in the pub," explains Marie-Pier Johnson.

The three co-owners are on a mission to "celebrate the pride that has united us in Sept-Îles for generations, in a relaxed atmosphere, among friends to chat, share a laugh and drink a good craft beer. And if you get hungry, treat yourself to one of our comfort foods, made right here or at one of our partner businesses," reads their promotional copy.

The menu offers snacks and meals such as fondue, various pizzas, tacos, salads and mac & cheese, among others.
The beers all have evocative names, such as l'Ouvrière, la Wagon Rouge, la Blanche des Forges, la Pointe-aux-Basques, la Clarke and la Sorensen (IPA). The latest addition is La Corossol, their first-ever Gose. They are brewed and reflect the company's focus on the industry's role in the region's development.

This allusion to the workers and industrial builders of Sept-îles is also evident in the original promotional messages, such as this one: Here, we're not afraid to say that our beer is made from iron ore, whale blubber, paper pulp, and stories of hardworking workers. Back in the day, they said, "I'm off to work at Compagnie," today they say, "I'm off to drink at Compagnie."

 
La Compagnie has won several awards in the microbrewery industry in recent years for its beers. "But honestly, what makes us most proud is knowing that it's the people here who drink them," according to the company's Facebook page. "Let's be honest, we brew them first and foremost so that the people of Sept-Îles will love them... and be proud of their microbrewery," add the owners, who thank the entire team.

The company store offers a variety of merchandise bearing the La Compagnie brand: clothing, accessories, and gift cards. Currently, home delivery is not available; purchases must be picked up at the downtown microbrewery.

La Compagnie employs about twenty people and its pub is open year-round. Several of its 10 products have been available in convenience stores since 2020. The company now plans to stabilize operations and distribution before discussing new product development, says Marie-Pier Johnson.

La Compagnie Microbrewery and Pub
microlacompagnie.com
15, rue du Père-Divet
Sept-Îles (Québec) G4R 5B6
418.961.2337

It will turn 35 in October 2023. It represents one of the greatest gifts a society can give itself: a tool for preserving its collective memory. Since its creation, this brainchild of the Québec government has never failed to amaze us with exhibitions and events that go far beyond what museums usually offer.

The mission entrusted to it is specifically:
- to present the history and various components of our civilization, in particular the material and social cultures of the inhabitants of the Québec territory, as well as those that have enriched them;
- to ensure the preservation and promotion of the ethnographic collection and other collections representative of our civilization;
- to ensure a Québec presence in the international museum scene through acquisitions, exhibitions and other cultural and educational outreach activities.

The Musée de la Civilisation is unique in that it DARES to engage with themes, subjects and issues that reflect our deep realities as a Québécois people.

Since opening to the public on October 19, 1988, the national museum institution has, over the years, been given additional responsibilities by the Québec government: conservation and promotion, the creation of the Centre national de conservation et d’études des collections, and the promotion and programming of Place Royale, etc.

Today, the expertise of the Musée de la civilisation is consolidated, known, and recognized throughout the Canadian network and the international circuit of major museums. The creativity, know-how, and efficiency of its craftspeople are a hallmark of the Museum.

Firmly committed to the 21st century
According to the Museum's CEO, Stéphan LaRoche, "the MCQ's cultural offering, through its diversity, abundance and quality, has left its mark on the imagination of the Québécois and visitors from everywhere. The sheer variety of its outreach methods continues to surprise. Like any living organization, it adapts and transforms, continuing to explore new avenues and develop new ways of doing things."

Innovation, digital engagement and organizational optimization are at the heart of the work carried out by the skilled team of more than 230 people, with the goal of being more creative and more effective, and of strengthening the museum's positioning as a gathering place for the community.

The daily work of all these people includes mounting exhibitions and cultural and educational activities, conserving and handling objects, communications, sound management, and welcoming and engaging different audiences.

“Our museum is a ‘house of the world’, where families, young people and communities of all backgrounds come together to better understand the past, build the present and dream of the future. Our diverse programming of exhibitions and activities eloquently reflects this,” continues Mr. LaRoche.

Extraordinary and incredibly welcoming places
As soon as you enter the Museum's grand hall, you are struck by the sheer size of the space, its brightness and its truly astonishing layout.

Indeed, below the reception area, a rather unusual installation can be seen. Archaeological excavations carried out in the Guillaume-Estèbe house during the construction of the Musée de la civilisation revealed a boat dating from the French Regime, preserved because it was not exposed to the open air. The boat is displayed prominently in the museum's hall.

She "navigates" amidst a large-scale sculpture, La débâcle by Astri Reusch. This was the winning entry in a 1982 province-wide competition to design and create a sculpture on the theme of the Saint-Laurent River. These large blocks of cast reinforced concrete evoke the melting of the river's ice in the spring. A truly impressive display.

It's quite incredible to think that at high tide some 250 years ago, the Museum's hall was submerged. Where the doors are today, the water would have been knee-deep.

An exhibition that really makes you think!
After the presentation of the retrospective photography exhibition Evergon – Theatres of Intimacy Following the exhibition by the MNBAQ on the Plains in 2022, on a plurisexual theme that truly broke new ground, the MCQ is now offering in 2023 an exhibition that also "dares" to address pressing issues in contemporary Québec society, entitled "One of a kind".

We are truly invited to dive into the heart of the human experience and its diversity by exploring the multiple realities linked to gender identities. In Québec, as elsewhere, we see how these identities transform over time and evolve across cultures. The visibility of trans, non-binary, and Two-Spirit people is gaining importance, but gender-based violence persists despite the efforts of communities to have their identities and rights recognized.

After two visits (the first, shorter one, during the launch last May, and the second, more in-depth one, on June 27), we must admit that the informational content of this exhibition is phenomenal. By presenting video sequences with various people who have experienced, or are still experiencing, particular situations related to gender identity (including parents, doctors, psychologists, teachers, various experts, etc.), the exhibition helps us better understand the reality of these individuals, while also helping us move dynamically through a world that is often confusing for those unfamiliar with it.

To help visitors or anyone else interested in better "navigating" this world of gender issues, the Museum team has prepared a "One of a kind" guide which can be downloaded. Recommended for a fully informed visit to the exhibition (before or after).

Through this exhibition, the Museum wishes to participate in these important discussions and contribute to demystifying and celebrating the plurality of gender identities.

For his part, at the MNBAQ in 2022, the immensely creative Canadian artist Evergon explored identity, bodily diversity, love, desire, and aging at the heart of his work. All facets of life were celebrated, often with humour. Evergon incorporated notions of autofiction and extimacy (a revelation of the intimate in the public sphere), common today, but which he explored early in his career. Evergon delved into the terms of queer masculine and feminine identity, shaking up overly rigid perceptions.

A Green Museum!
In addition to presenting an exhibition until October 10th that invites visitors to see Life in Green Thanks to a carefully selected spectrum of objects from the Museum's various collections, the MCQ has just realized an old dream: that of keeping a vegetable garden on the roofs of the building.

A temporary vegetable garden project was installed in 2008 to mark the 400th anniversary of Québec, but the Museum dreamed of creating a permanent green space. In partnership with Nature Québec, the green roof project was finally put in place in October 2021. On your next visit to the Museum, you must climb the grand staircase and go see the greenery!

The concept of this greening reflects the natural functioning of an ecosystem: its process of evolution and development. At the bottom of the stairs, a familiar, man-made world welcomes the visitor. The higher one climbs towards the roof, the more one moves towards a dense, almost wild natural environment, where life can flourish.

This path allows us to realize the extent to which humans can exert influence and control over this fragile natural world. It fosters awareness of how we have taken over these places, and ultimately, the need to return them to a wilder, more natural, and healthier state for all living things. The project's concept and objectives are perfectly aligned with the role of the Musée de la civilisation: that of a museum of society.

Among the greening projects in development are perennial, native and fruit-bearing plants, flowers, and even trees! But above all, the priority was to create a shared, community vegetable garden. In fact, the MCQ wants to give back and redistribute to the community, to local organizations, for example.

Musée de la Civilisation
mcq.org
85, rue Dalhousie
Québec (Québec) G1K 8R2
418 643-2158

Expo "One of a kind"
Presented until April 2024.
Click the link for description and tickets.

Pierre Perreault

A stone's throw from the town of Matane, a little further east on the shores of the Saint-Laurent Estuary, a building has stood for over 80 years. Known from 1940 to 1970 as the Magasin général de Petit-Matane, it was owned by Armand Gauthier. Left unoccupied for nearly 25 years, it wasn't until 2004 that it was revived as a museum and restaurant, a role it held until 2013.
At the time, many visitors were able to see much of the store's inventory, which remained intact. Since 2014, the Ancien Magasin Général has had a new owner, Cathy Truchon, a Matane native, who has undertaken a bold restoration to bring the period building back to life.

Today, it offers probably one of the most authentic and original accommodations in Gaspésie, just steps from the shores of the mighty Saint-Laurent. The blend of old and new gives a unique character to each of the two sections that make up the house: the living quarters and the shop. Right on the waterfront, this house is the ideal place for a relaxing stay in a stunning setting.

It's not every day that a business in the Village has lasted 40 years. Yet that's what Guillaume Patenaude, owner of Campus Bar & Danseurs nus, and his team will be celebrating this Tuesday, August 28th, and throughout the Labour Day weekend.



For the occasion, there will be several special activities and surprise guests, as the Campus has accustomed its customers to expect over the years. The previous owner, Gary Blanchard, worked hard to build a reputation for this place for more than 22 years.

Upon taking over as owner in 2022, Guillaume Patenaude was determined to continue in the same direction, and even to develop a new concept, the Daddy's Corner, which welcomes male customers only between 3 p.m. and 7 p.m. daily. The club's graphic identity was also updated, giving it a classy look, featuring a loop within a shield, surmounted by the letter "C".


This, then, is the occasion to celebrate 40 years in the Montréal sky with the dance team, who will once again dazzle audiences all weekend long. The Campus is open daily from 3 p.m. to 3 a.m.

Campus Bar & Danseurs nus
campusmtl.com
1111, rue Sainte-Catherine Est
Montréal
514-526-3616