Travel log

coucher du soleil

Located in downtown Moncton, the Aberdeen Cultural Centre is a historic building that houses several cultural organizations and artists' studios, serving as an important gathering place for the artistic community in southeastern New Brunswick.

 
It is also the location of the restaurant Les Brumes du Coude, which opened in 2014 with chef Michel Savoie at the helm. The bistro quickly made its mark among the top 100 restaurants in Canada. It offers simple and tasty cuisine—a true French bistro cuisine, a result of his seven years of cooking in France. 

Brumes du Coude

The restaurant is housed in a former classroom of the Aberdeen School, which became the Aberdeen Cultural Centre in 1986. In 2017, the centre added a 50-seat cultural terrace, managed by Les Brumes du Coude during the summer season. 

Brumes du Coude

So, where does the name of his restaurant come from? The city of Moncton is known for its Petitcodiac River, whose name means "which bends like a bow" in Mi'kmaq. The Acadians who settled there in 1733 called this place Le Coude because of the bend in this powerful brown river, where the mists from the marshes hide. To this day, Moncton is still nicknamed Le Coude.

However, the name Les Brumes du Coude has a very different meaning for the owner-chef Michel Savoie. He explains this term as being a description of what inspires him in cooking: the misty smells of simmered dishes, the vapors that are the result of physical effort, or elbow grease. 

Brumes du Coude Brumes du Coude

His cuisine is generous, fair, and on point, in the spirit of a French bistro. Inspired by seasonal local and sea products, it features a blend of French, Acadian, and other culinary traditions. "There is always something new to discover at Les Brumes du Coude because, just like the menu, the wine and cocktail list is constantly evolving. The team at Les Brumes du Coude will be pleased to welcome you to this lively, warm, and friendly space," he explains.

Brumes du Coude

Originally from Tabusintac, a small village north of Néguac, Michel Savoie was not destined for the restaurant business. Before the end of his high school studies, he had not really shown an interest in cooking. Financial reasons did not allow him to attend university. At 18, with no particular qualifications, he found himself working in a kitchen, starting as a dishwasher. Gradually, he discovered a certain talent in the pots and pans.

He has been in the restaurant industry for about twenty years, mainly in Montreal and Tours, France, often holding positions at the lower end of the hierarchy. His move to France was because he followed his then-wife, who was French. Did he receive formal culinary training? He spent a few months at the ITHQ in his early twenties but was unable to complete the training due to financial constraints. 

His desire to combat pervasive junk food, even in Moncton, motivated him to move forward with opening his own restaurant.

Brumes du Coude

Could he be contributing to the reinvention of Acadian cuisine with his attempts to revalue local products? He would rather cook as much as possible with local and sea products from here. One might call it Acadian cuisine if the terroir in question corresponded to an Acadian territory. However, he prefers not to get involved in the thorny debate over the borders of Acadia.
In the meantime, we have the leisure and privilege of enjoying the place, its charming decor, its enticing menu, and the beautiful culinary discoveries that Michel Savoie shares with his clientele. And if you are a fan of mussels, know that the best of the kind have been savored here, in proportions to satisfy the greatest appetites.


Les Brumes du Coude
lesbrumesducoude.com
140 Botsford Street
Moncton, NB E1C 4X5
506 858-0777

Aficionados are well-aware that Cantharellus cibarius, known in French as girolle or Chanterelle commune, is a species of basidiomycete fungi belonging to the Cantharellaceae family. This mushroom, widespread across the Northern Hemisphere, is esteemed for its culinary excellence, ranking among the most renowned and sought-after in its category.

By analogy, the same can be said for the French "bring your own wine" restaurant La Girolle, nestled in Quebec's Saint-Sacrement neighborhood, which has been a well-known and sought-after destination for 23 years. Owned by Chef David Grenier (photo) since 2018, the establishment has preserved the spirit and values of its founders while naturally evolving its menu over the years and seasons.

La Girolle

Let's highlight some of the famous dishes available. Starters include: Deluxe Charcuterie Plate, Escargot Pastry in Cheese Sauce, Flavors of L'ile d'Orléans, Bison Carpaccio with Truffle Emulsion. Main courses particularly appreciated are: Scallop and Shrimp Risotto, Grilled Lamb Loin with Spanish Sauce, Duck Breast with Port and Serviceberry, Braised Sweetbreads à la Forestière, Land and Sea / Black Pudding with Spices, Deer in Mushroom Crust with Périgord Sauce, Salmon Pavé with Mango Salsa, Chef's Style Beef Fillet Mignon, Pork Tenderloin with Cheddar Fondue and Balsamic.

La Girolle La Girolle

Grenier, before acquiring the restaurant, had been actively involved in various kitchen roles, from dishwasher to cook, starting at the age of 18. Despite not attending prestigious culinary schools or holding renowned degrees in hospitality, his merit includes stints at famed establishments during travels in Australia and around the world, where he honed and developed his culinary skills.

Alongside the previous owners of La Girolle, he has cultivated the art of dining based on dishes that continue to contribute to the place's fame and draw a loyal clientele, in addition to developing an entirely new menu. Since Grenier took over, there have been no major changes to the venue: the carpet was removed, and some minor renovations were made. His motivation lies in maintaining consistent quality in the cuisine, always in line with market availability and seasonally affordable products.

La Girolle 

In addition to the regular menu displayed on large wheeled blackboards, which changes with the seasons, one can always order frozen dishes for takeout, offering meals distinct from the regular menu and complementing the dining room offerings. This product, even post the 2000-2001 pandemic, continues to enjoy success. They also offer various takeout and reheat dishes (soups, salads, charcuteries, sweetbreads, black pudding, pork tenderloin, for example).

La Girolle

Indeed, La Girolle remains one of the rare "bring your own wine" (or beer) restaurants in Quebec City, a concept David Grenier assures will not change. This format is highly appreciated six evenings and three afternoons each week, from August to June. Its location outside tourist districts allows a month-long July vacation for the team of approximately 25 employees.

La Girolle

La Girolle can accommodate up to 140 guests in the evening, from Tuesday to Sunday, with 106 seats spread across two distinct sections. Reservations are recommended, especially from Friday to Sunday. Workers and residents of the neighborhood frequent it for lunch from Wednesday to Friday.

For history enthusiasts, the establishment Les Prés had been located here since 1990. La Girolle has been operating at this address since 2000.

La Girolle

Restaurant La Girolle
lagirolle.ca
1384, Chemin Sainte-Foy
Québec, QC, G1S 2N6
(418) 527-4141


By Gaëtan Vaudry

Running a chocolate shop involves a deep commitment to a fascinating world. This is exactly what chocolatier Véronique Émond has been doing since founding Choco Véro in 2017. A year later, she left her role as the head of food services at the Baie-Comeau detention center to dedicate herself entirely to her business.

In an interview with journalist Charlotte Paquet from the La Manic newspaper of Baie-Comeau in 2018, Véronique stated that "there is no price for living your passion." And that’s what she has been doing with her partner, investing at least 70 hours per week. Besides selling her products at her Place La Salle store and through her Facebook page, Véronique also offers her products in about a dozen convenience stores from Colombier to Port-Cartier.

ChocoVero2

The Best Local Ingredients

Since October, the artist at Choco Véro has been working on her holiday products and, for a few days now, preparing her offerings for Valentine's Day, a pivotal period for chocolateries. This will be followed by Easter, Mother's Day, and Father's Day: "Our products are handmade with the finest local ingredients," the chocolatier proudly emphasizes. "We guarantee that you will savor the taste of your personalized treat with every bite."

ChocoVero3 ChocoVero4 ChocoVero5

In our meeting, the businesswoman explained her deep involvement in fundraising campaigns. Numerous organizations seek her services for custom-made chocolates, which they then sell for fundraising purposes. "I love to get involved in these causes close to my heart," she specifies. "Choco Véro is also actively involved in the campaign for the Canadian Multiple Sclerosis Society, as well as cancer causes." Last November 28, Véronique proudly participated in GivingTuesday, where several businesses in Baie-Comeau donated their day's profits to United Way.

Choco Véro
8, Place La Salle
Baie-Comeau, Québec
418 293-2120
chocovero.com

By Gaëtan Vaudry

If I were to summarize my interview with Jean-François Cloutier, co-founder and co-owner of St. Laurent Distillery, in one word, it would be PASSION. The entrepreneur welcomes me to the company's new facilities, a magnificent building by the sea, located in the Pointe-au-Père district, in Rimouski. In a matter of seconds, I am immersed in the world of whiskey and gin distillation, which has built the reputation of this business employing 25 staff members.

Disti. StLaurent2

The micro-distillery was founded in 2015 by Jean-François and his accomplice Joël Pelletier, when their very first product, St-Laurent Gin, quickly caused a sensation and is now available in 14 countries – no small feat! “It was through discussing our passion for certain spirits that Joel and I developed the project to produce our own whisky,” Jean-François explains. “Today, we believe in it more than ever, especially when we look at the 300 barrels currently aging in our reserve. We are proud to be among the pioneers of micro-distillation in Quebec.”

Educating People

While St. Laurent Distillery produces a variety of products that delight enthusiasts, the owners have made it their mission to educate visitors on the fascinating production of spirits like whisky, gin, and Acerum, a brand-new class of spirit made from maple syrup distillation: “It was important for us to offer mixology workshops, including the history of cocktails and a theoretical overview of the spirits universe,” the co-owner proudly points out. “The basic tour is 45 minutes to an hour and includes some theoretical segments. Additionally, thanks to a coupon system, people can taste many of our products.”

Enthusiasts visiting 135, avenue Père-Nouvel in Rimouski also have access to the micro-distillery’s store, not to mention four well-appointed areas, including the establishment's bar and its terrace (with a sea view), a second terrace (the Terrasse-Nord) available during the beautiful summer season, as well as the magnificent courtyard which, also in summer, allows the St. Laurent Distillery team to host chefs who offer small dishes on site, and even musical groups and DJs.

Disti. StLaurent3 Disti. StLaurent4 Disti. StLaurent5

Acerum Festival

In our conversation, Jean-François, always brimming with ideas, talks about creating a new Acerum festival, set to debut in 2024. While the dates have yet to be announced, the concept is well underway and will be revealed soon: “This festival will be an opportunity for us to develop partnerships with collaborators and producers from all over Quebec, including several local maple groves.”

If you are not yet familiar with the products of St. Laurent Distillery, a visit to the facilities is a must. To deepen your knowledge of whisky and gin, I strongly suggest the Grand tour du proprio package (approximately 2 hours long). In any case, you will need to reserve your spot HERE, via the company's website.

St. Laurent Distillery
135, avenue Père-Nouvel
Rimouski
418 880-4694
distilleriedustlaurent.com


By Gaëtan Vaudry

Since 2017, Microbrewery La Mouche has been turning heads with its beers, almost exclusively crafted from Quebecois ingredients, without any additives.

Right off the bat, Kelly Mansbridge, the head of sales and marketing at the young Natashquan microbrewery, shared her insights on a slight slump the Quebec microbrewing industry had been experiencing for several months, as reported by some media in November: "It's certainly not easy," she candidly noted. "With many microbreweries in Quebec and a vast range of products available to enthusiasts, the market is becoming increasingly competitive."

La Mouche4

Natashquan's Own Wild Yeast

Gabriel Turner, the artist and craftsman behind the success of La Mouche's beers, originally from Montreal and adopted by Natashquan, founded the microbrewery in 2017. He brewed his very first beer at the Microbrewery St-Pancrace in Baie-Comeau, before moving to Natashquan three years later. "Gabriel loves Natashquan for its wild nature, its unfenced lands, and the social life of a welcoming community," Kelly proudly mentioned. "Passionate about this beautiful region of the North Shore, Gabriel aimed to create jobs in the area. He wanted to produce a beer for the local people." After extensive research and development, Gabriel achieved his goal, brewing beers with Quebec hops and grains, and even cultivating his own wild yeast in Natashquan!

I had the opportunity to taste only one product from Microbrewery La Mouche: Mlle Manon, a gently wheat beer with little bitterness, inspired by German hefeweizens. This beer's effervescence is lively, almost sharp. In its large bottle, one finds a hazy, foamy, and sparkling beer with a fresh and pleasant grainy flavor. Mlle Manon is remarkably refreshing, which is exactly what I look for in a beer!

Mikushkuau: The Microbrewery's New Beer

Microbrewery La Mouche offers more than 16 varieties of beer, from Bomber Jaune to Mickey Finn, including Cosse Boom, Pelletier, Pirate, Muddler, Pompier, Green Butt, and Colibri, to name just a few. Did you know that each beer name refers to a fly used in fly fishing? For instance, the microbrewery recently announced its new beer, Mikushkuau ("The sky is red" in Innu language), inspired by a fishing fly specially created for the company by Audrey Ringuette, founder of the North Shore enterprise Shakutaimu. Ms. Ringuette offers introductory fly fishing courses for everyone.

La Mouche's beers are available at over 150 locations in Quebec, especially in establishments specializing in microbrewery beers (see the list here).

Microbrewery La Mouche
33, Chemin de l'Aéroport
Natashquan (Québec)
418 962-6003
microbrasserielamouche.com

By Gaëtan Vaudry

Connoisseurs of fine dining in Matane are familiar with Pub La Fabrique and its namesake Artisanal Brewery, located on Saint-Jérôme Avenue. Matane's first artisanal brewery sprung up in the summer of 2010. Owned by the cooperative Le Cabestan, it has been gaining popularity ever since.

At Pub La Fabrique, you can enjoy an excellent pub-style meal featuring fish & chips, burgers, sandwiches, salads, and appetizers, along with sipping on a finely brewed beer made on-site, or one of the 35 whiskies that have built the establishment's reputation. During my meeting with Jean-Pierre Boutin (pictured), a member of the cooperative's board, the La Fabrique team had just unveiled their much-anticipated Holiday menu (discoverable here), to the delight of the place's many patrons. This menu is available every evening from 4 PM until mid-January.

Pub La Fabrique is simply stunning. With a cozy decor spread over two floors, it regularly hosts shows by emerging artists, drawing crowds to Saint-Jérôme Street, and often creating a buzzing atmosphere in the pub.

La Fabrique2 La Fabrique3 La Fabrique4

Supporting Matane's Businesses

La Fabrique - Artisanal Brewery brews around 25 beers, ranging from their classics to seasonal varieties, including oak barrel-aged beers. As Jean-Pierre Boutin explains, the brewery strives to use local products as much as possible, aiming to support businesses in Matane and the surrounding region.

La Fabrique5La Fabrique7

If you're passing through Matane, a stop at the pub and the adjacent La Fabrique Brewery is a must. At the latter, you can sample the establishment's offerings and visit the official shop, which boasts an array of products.

Pub La Fabrique La Fabrique - Artisanal Brewery
360, Saint-Jérôme Avenue 366, Saint-Jérôme Avenue
Matane (Quebec) Matane (Quebec)
418 566-4020 418 566-4020
publafabrique.com publafabrique.com


By Gaëtan Vaudry

When you visit Chicoutimi, especially on the famous Racine Street, you can't miss the equally renowned Bistro D. Owned by businessman David Rousseau, this establishment aims to blend French, Italian, and Asian influences, delighting a loyal clientele with delicious traditional dishes made with the finest local and seasonal ingredients.

Bistro D has been a shining star in downtown Chicoutimi for several years, and its little sisters, the Sandwicherie and the Salaison du Bistro D, are no less impressive. The pride of its owner and founder, the Salaison du Bistro D offers superior quality charcuteries: "Each piece of meat is hand-prepared, artisanally," emphasizes David Rousseau. "We subtly add spices and herbs, creating a feast for the senses." The Salaison du Bistro D boasts a variety of excellent products, including dry sausages, lonzu, salami, chaudin, coppa, bresaola, ventrèche, and many more.

Bistro D2 Bistro D3 Bistro D5

In the high season, many French tourists make a detour to the Salaison du Bistro D. A Parisian customer recently stated: "I must declare my love: for 2 years in Quebec, I've been searching for a sausage reminiscent of those I had in France. I just found it in my local grocery, and it's a delight. Oh, how I missed it!" Such comments proudly flood the social media pages of Monsieur D's charcuteries, available at various points of sale in Quebec. Monsieur D's charcuteries were even semi-finalists at the 2023 Agri-Food Grand Prix Gala, in the Maxi and Provigo Public's Choice Award category. Quite an achievement!

Where David and his team truly stand out is in their precious partnerships with artisans from Saguenay. For instance, they created a sausage with beer and pork from the Villoise Farm in Saint-Gédéon, and sausages with Beemer Vodka, in collaboration with Morille Québec, offered by the Beemer Distillery in Roberval.

Bistro D2

If you try a dish at Bistro D, a friendly staff member will be able to suggest a variety of privately imported wines, carefully selected to enhance the flavors of your plate.

Bistro D / The Sandwicherie / The Salaison du Bistro D
381, Racine Street East, Chicoutimi
418 973-4668
Bistro D / The Sandwicherie Facebook Page
The Salaison du Bistro D Facebook Page

By Gaëtan Vaudry

I knew that stopping in Baie-Comeau, an industrial-port city on the North Shore, would give me the chance to meet friendly people. This was indeed the case with Frédéric St-Laurent Garon, one of the three shareholders of the Boucherie les trois p'tits cochons. Getting to know Fred, as everyone calls him, is to meet a passionate craftsman. For him, meats hold no secrets, not to mention sushi, of which he became a master over a good decade. The most loyal customers praise the impeccable service of the butchery's team, as well as the great variety of numerous products, their quality, and the much-anticipated return of the sushi counter.

3 petits cochons2 3 petits cochons3 3 petits cochons4

Fred and his partner make it a duty to offer a good dozen products from local producers (including those from Les jardins de Carmanor farm), and several products from Boucherie les trois p'tits cochons also feature on the menus of Manicouagan restaurants: "It's important for us to promote the work of local artisans," the main interested party emphasizes. "We're even thinking of proposing to another butchery in the region to create a new sauce with us. Simply to demonstrate the beautiful fraternity that exists between the businesses of Baie-Comeau."

Well worth the detour!

Among the top sellers at Boucherie les trois p'tits cochons are, of course, classic beef, but also marinated meats, a wide variety of sausages, charcuteries (including those from Charcuterie Le porc-épique), beef and salmon tartares, not to mention the veal and haskap berry tartare, a real lightly fruity delight, and the house's cheeseburger tartare. During my visit, Fred had just finished preparing stuffed jalapeno peppers with cheese and wrapped in bacon... who can top that?

Always in search of novelties, Fred is very happy about his new collaboration with Pinto's MC Wagyu, offering Wagyu beef of exceptional quality, originating from Japan. "The quality of this beef is incredible," the young businessman points out. "And its flavor, highly enhanced. It's not cheap, but it's worth the detour!"

Fred and his team have many projects. The return of the popular sushi counter shows just how much this product is in demand at the Baie-Comeau butchery: "The boxes disappear almost the moment we place them in the counter," explains the expert. "We are therefore in constant production, to meet the high demand." I personally had the chance to experience a dish of 10 sushis, specially prepared by dear Fred. And I can now understand the enthusiasm of aficionados for this excellent product of Boucherie les trois p'tits cochons!

Boucherie les trois p'tits cochons
873, rue Bossé, Baie-Comeau
418 294-0804
Visit the butchery's Facebook page

By Gaëtan Vaudry

During our brief stay in the city of Saguenay, it was impossible not to visit Café Cambio on Racine Est Street four or five times. First, to enjoy the atmosphere of this downtown Chicoutimi solidarity cooperative, but also to savor delicious, affordable health-conscious dishes featuring products from several local producers.

As soon as she speaks about the products found at this fair trade and organic micro-roastery, founded in March 2005, Virginie Simard-Dufour's eyes light up. She speaks of the relentless teamwork of 32 members, including 10 worker members: "Under the label, we embody a vision, that of a better world, a world where farmers and workers sit at the negotiation table on equal footing," proudly highlights the service manager, restaurant and barista of the place.

Café Cambio, a popular spot for many students from the Cégep de Chicoutimi and the Université du Québec à Chicoutimi (UQAC), also serves as a venue for many young artists from Saguenay. The establishment regularly hosts art exhibitions and small acoustic concerts featuring emerging music.

During my visit last November, I had the chance to enjoy excellent dishes at the establishment, initiated by two childhood friends from Montreal, Guylaine Pelletier and Geneviève Demers. For starters, a delightful mushroom soup, comforting in this season. I continued with the spicy Bedi panini (Cajun-spiced chicken, caramelized onions, spinach, mozzarella, and veganaise), served with salad, corn chips, and salsa. We concluded with the dessert of the day, all accompanied by one of their excellent fair-trade coffees. To my great surprise, the bill for this delicious three-course meal was very affordable!

Moreover, what struck me most during my first visit was their "Pay It Forward" concept, where customers can anonymously donate a soup or coffee to someone in need. Knowing that the homelessness situation is worsening in downtown Chicoutimi, this admirable gesture of generosity is particularly meaningful.

Café Cambio's coffee and products are available at several outlets in the Saguenay-Lac-Saint-Jean region, including Chicoutimi, Jonquière, La Baie, Saint-Ambroise/Saint-Honoré, MRC Lac-Saint-Jean-Est, MRC Domaine-du-Roy, Bas-Saguenay, Saint-Fulgence/Sainte-Rose-Sacré-Cœur, Tadoussac, Les Bergeronnes, Les Escoumins, and even the Côte-Nord!

Café Cambio
414, Rue Racine Est, Chicoutimi
418 549-7830
cafecambio.ca


By Gaëtan Vaudry

Stepping into the Fjord Distillery shop, nestled at the foot of the Monts-Valin, it's nearly impossible not to be charmed by the smiling and dynamic team. For the Bouchard family and their employees, each person who enters the shop is much more than just a customer. They are a partner in the family's success!


During my visit, the marketing manager – Frédérique Folly – eagerly introduced me to one of their most recent successes: a 1.75-liter cubitainer, featuring their famous KM 12 boreal forest gin. Not available at the SAQ, the ‘ginier’ of the Bouchard family, the first micro-distillery in the Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean region, has been selling like hotcakes since its market launch. This is in addition to their maple gin and Sélection blueberry brandy, high-end products they are particularly proud of.

Finally, let me tell you about one of the top sellers since last summer: the Hilymoncello lemon liqueur, which gives nothing less than a second life to the lemons used by the company. I am referring to the recycled lemons from their original cocktail and ready-to-drink productions. A brilliant idea... that is bearing fruit!


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There are numerous projects on the horizon for the creators of the Fjord Distillery. In the coming months, the management will unveil a series of new products that will undoubtedly continue to enhance the company's reputation for many years to come.

It's worth noting that at the Fjord Distillery, the forest and the family are at the heart of the business. The team is committed to improving year after year in terms of sustainable development, in order to leave a positive mark on their customers and the environment.


The Fjord Distillery
48, Chemin de Price
Saint-David-de-Falardeau
418 673-1012
distilleriedufjord.com